Hamilton Journal-News

Q: I’ve owned my 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII with a 4.6-liter engine since it was new. It now has 96,000 miles and never has given me any trouble. One thing bothers me. When the car had 50,000 miles, it developed a rough idle. This only occurs with the initial start of the day when the engine is cold. When it warms up, the idle is smooth. The engine isn’t missing. It hits on all eight cylinders, but it runs rough.

I took the car to my dealer. One mechanic thought the roughness is caused by a fluid-filled motor mount that isn’t level with the other motor mounts. He thinks that once the motor mount warms up, it levels out and the roughness disappears. Is this possible? R.D.S., Bluefield , Va.

A: It’s possible. Engine mounts do wear. When they do, vibrations from the engine can transmit to the passenger compartment. It’s more likely, though, that the engine has developed a condition that is causing the roughness. There may be carbon deposits that impair combustion. Perhaps the mass air flow sensor is contaminated. Maybe the idle air control sticks. Problems such as these may or may not set trouble codes in the engine control computer. Of course, if the check engine light has illuminated during a recent cold start, a code may be stored in the computer to help a technician diagnose the trouble. If so, tests will help him find the cause of the idle condition.

Before spending a lot of money on what might be guesswork, consider adding a carbon removing additive to the fuel tank. Chemicals for this purpose are available from many dealership parts departments and auto supply stores. Follow the directions on the container. If the rough idle does not improve after a couple of tanks of gas are consumed, discontinue use of the additive. Carbon deposits may not be the source of the symptoms. Testing by an experienced technician may find another source for your concern.

Heat improves fuel economy

Q: I drive my 1999 Ford Taurus SHO with 37,000 miles mostly around town. The fuel economy is about 10 mpg. Mechanics at two different garages have checked over the car, but neither has found anything wrong.

To increase fuel economy, I have tried fuel additives and replaced the air filter, to no avail. Do you have any suggestions? F.W., Riverfalls , Wis.

A: In all my years in this business, vehicles have never met the fuel economy standards stated in the fuel economy ratings posted on the Monroney sticker that comes with every car. Your car is no different. The fuel economy rating for your car is somewhere around 16 mpg/city and 25 mpg/highway. Your car won’t attain these ratings. It’s just a fact of life.

It’s feasible that the engine is not warming to operating temperature. The engine must reach operating temperature to burn fuel as efficiently as design allows. Make sure that the engine thermostat is functioning properly. If not, replace it.

Check the cold tire inflation on a monthly basis. Make sure the engine oil is the weight and grade recommended by the carmaker. It must be fresh and clean. If not, change the oil and filter.

When using the car, combine several errands or stops to reduce the number of trips you make. Avoid jackrabbit stops and starts. Accelerate from stops steadily, but don’t baby your SHO. Hold a steady speed when cruising. Time stops to avoid fast stops. And lastly, enjoy your car.

Frustrated Over Rough Running Engine

Q: Recently the check engine light turned on in my 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier with a 2.2 liter engine. Now when I come to a stop the engine runs rough. Three different mechanics have checked the engine and computer. The computer codes indicate a random misfire condition. The spark plug wires, spark plugs and one fuel injector have been replaced.

I added fuel injector cleaner and gas treatments to the gas tank. After this the engine quit running. The problem was a failed fuel pump. A new one was installed to get the engine running but it continues to run rough. What’s wrong with this engine? A.N., Dover, Ohio

A: You seem a little frustrated but this can be repaired. Apparently there continues to be a random misfire condition. Tests by an experienced technician may verify this. The condition might be caused by a poor connection in the fuel injector circuit or ignition circuit. The connection may be suffering from corrosion or maybe there is a poor ground connection as a result of a loose bolt or corrosion. A check of these circuits is in order.

It’s also possible corrosion has infiltrated the connections to the engine control module. A check of the ground connections and multiple pin plug on the computer may find this to be true. If so, removing corrosion or repairing a loose pin in a plug may end your woes.

It’s also feasible the oil pump operation is beyond factory specifications. A check of the oil pressure may find this to be true. If this is the case, installation of a new oil pump should put an end to your frustration.

No Need For Flush

Q: The other day I had my 2003 Dodge Caravan at a shop for some service. I was told by the service advisor that it is advisable to have the fuel system flushed to clean out sludge. I decided against this as I had just returned from a trip during which the average fuel economy was 26 mpg.

I checked the factory service schedule to find no mention of a fuel system flush. Does the fuel system require cleaning? D.M., Huntley, IL.

A: Nope. Fuel systems do not require regular scheduled maintenance flushes. Use quality gasoline especially those known as top tier gasolines and the fuel system may last the life of the vehicle without a flush.

However, if the engine exhibits symptoms such as a drop in fuel economy, reduction in power, rough idle or even stalling these might be signs that the fuel injectors are impaired by deposits that a flush can remove.

Price Is Right

Q: The other day I had been traveling about 15 minutes when I noticed that the temperature gauge in my 1999 Mitsubishi Galant was bouncing in the hot zone. I pulled over and checked under the hood to find that the coolant level was full and the cooling system fan wasn’t running but everything seemed fine. I traveled another 100 miles without trouble except for the reading on the temperature gauge.

I took the car to my Mitsubishi dealer where a mechanic diagnosed the trouble as a faulty gauge. The estimate to replace it was $273 for labor and $159 for the gauge plus the mechanic replaced some burnt out bulbs in the instrument panel. I went on the internet to check out prices and found a temperature sending unit. Is this part the temperature gauge? Do you think I was shafted? K.A., E-mail.

A: It doesn’t appear that you were overcharged. Since we know very little about the labor rates and parts prices in your area we can’t compare prices so it’s our policy here in Gizmo land not to estimate the cost of repairs. However, what you were charged seems reasonable for the work performed. There is diagnostic time to probe the circuits, actual repair time to remove and replace the instrument cluster, replace bulbs, the cost of the parts, environmental charges, shop supply charges and of course taxes.

The sending unit you found on the internet is the engine coolant temperature sensor on the engine at the thermostat. These usually aren’t too expensive. The gauge is the part in the instrument cluster. The cost of this part is about five times more than the sending unit. The next time the car needs repair consider asking for an estimate before authorizing the work. Then call other repair shops to compare prices. If the cost of the original estimate is close, authorize the work.

Concerned Over Too Much Oil

Q: Recently, I took my 2003 Chevrolet Impala with a 3.8 liter engine and 40,044 miles to my dealer to have the engine oil and filter changed. The mechanic poured five quarts of oil into the engine. My manual says it should hold four and a half quarts of oil. The dipstick also indicates that the oil level is above the full mark.

Will the half quart over the full mark indicated on the dipstick cause future problems in the engine? Should I drain a half quart of oil out of the engine to prevent damage? F.B., E-mail.

A: It’s not a critical condition. There is no need to drain oil. The oil will not impede the rotation of parts in the engine. The concern of having too much oil in the engine is a factor when the oil level is high enough in the oil pan to contact a rotating crankshaft. Under such conditions the crankshaft could momentarily slow with enough force to cause a piston rod to bend. A half quart above the full mark as indicated on the dipstick will not contact the crankshaft although it is normal for some oil to sling around the inside of the engine.

Incidentally according to my reference material the oil fill with a filter is 4.3 quarts of oil. Try to pour that precise amount into the engine.

Troubled Tail Lights

Q: I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. The tail lights and dash instrument lights no longer turn on when the headlights are on. The brake lights work fine.

I checked the fuses and they are fine. What could be wrong? S.T.C., E-mail.

A: Check the fuses again. A visual inspection of fuses does not always find a blown fuse. Check the fuses in the passenger compartment and under the hood with an ohm meter or test light and you might find a blown fuse. Replace fuses as needed.

If the fuses are ok, which is unlikely, check the taillight bulbs for failed filaments. Replace bulbs as needed. If these procedures don’t find the fault it’s likely the turn signal switch has failed or there is another fault in the circuit.

If your efforts don’t find the trouble ask an experienced technician to diagnose the trouble.

Parking Brake Can Stop Car

Q: Recently there was an accident in our area where a car drove off the end of a draw bridge. The driver survived the accident but two passengers did not. The driver stated that the hydraulic brakes failed.

Years ago cars were equipped with an emergency brake. Nowadays people place the transmission in park thinking that this will hold the car. Do you think that if the car was equipped with an emergency brake the driver in this accident could have stopped the car? B.P., E-mail.

A: Cars are equipped with a parking brake. It’s often called an emergency brake but actually it is a parking brake. It operates independently from the hydraulic brake system. It locks the rear wheels. It should be applied each time the vehicle is parked whether the car has an automatic transmission or manual transmission.

The parking brake can be used to stop a vehicle in an emergency but since it only operates on the two rear wheels it is not as effective in stopping a vehicle as the hydraulic system that applies the brakes at all four wheels. Also, the effectiveness of the parking brake depends on the condition of all the mechanical components in the system, road surface conditions, the overall condition of the car and the muscle power of the driver applying the brake. It’s possible that the car could have been stopped before it plunged off the bridge but when the parking brake is applied the stopping distance might be double the distance the car would stop when the brakes at all four wheels are applied.

Special Equipment Can Find Source of Squeaks

Q: My 1996 Nissan has two squeaks in the rear. One squeak only occurs in cold weather and has been in the car since 1998. The other sound recently developed and sounds as though there are plastic boxes bouncing around in the trunk. These noises can only be heard when driving.

What’s the cause? C.M., E-mail.

A: The noise that sounds like bouncing plastic boxes may be from the rear suspension. The squeak might be from a seat back mount, door latch, trunk lid grommet, dry weather strip, seat belt mechanism in a pillar or many other places in the car.

Ask an experienced technician to go for a test drive with you so you can demonstrate the sounds. Once this is accomplished he should have a good idea where to probe for the source of the noises. A visual inspection of the rear suspension and exhaust system might find a worn bushing or perhaps a strut needs replacement. A dab of automotive silicone might cure a squeak from a weather strip or perhaps a door latch striker needs replacement.

What will cure these noises all depends upon your description and demonstration of the sounds. If the cause of the noises are difficult to locate many repair shops have specialized equipment that can aid a technician in pinpointing the source of the sound but from what you describe the source of noises in your vehicle should not be too challenging to find.

Electricity Is A Mystery

Q: I can’t believe what I read in your column. You stated that resistance in a wire due to corrosion causes the starter to draw more current. Any certified master technician knows that this is not possible due to Ohm’s Law I=E/R being a fact. What do you have to say about this? T.M., Virginia Beach, Va.

A: Thanks for bringing this to my attention. There are several different ways to use Ohm’s Law and V=voltage, I=current, and R=resistance. Also, the study of electrical theory is theory and not law. The flow of electrons is ever changing and can be unpredictable. In this case when a test device is connected to the starting circuit it may show that the starter is drawing more current than it should when corrosion in the cable to the starter creeps deep into the wire strands. It can fool even the most experienced technician who has to rely on readings from his test equipment. Not only this, a drop in voltage due to corrosion causes the starter to turn slower than it should while the load on the starter may increase due to ambient temperature and conditions in the engine. This can burn up the starter. In such a case the cable and starter might need replacement.

Can’t Read The Radio

Q: The radio display in my 2000 Mercury Villager has ceased to illuminate. At one time it would light up and then occasionally blank out. What should I do about this? M.H., E-mail.

A: A check of fuses might find a blown fuse but more than likely the trouble is in the radio. To fix the display means repairing the radio. A dealership shop can handle this repair in possibly two ways. They might have an exchange radio that can be installed the same day. The other possibility is that the radio is removed and sent away to another shop for repair or exchange. This would mean that you would drive the vehicle without a radio until the exchange or repaired radio arrives at the dealer shop.

Also, you might consider removing the radio and have an aftermarket radio installed by a shop that installs accessories.

Rollover Caused Engine Damage

Q: My 2001 Honda Prelude with 70,000 miles uses a quart and a half of oil every 600 miles. Last March the car rolled over in an accident. Since then the engine has been burning oil. At the request of my insurance company a mechanic at my dealer garage checked out the engine but found nothing wrong.

I want a new engine. What do you think is going on? What caused the engine to burn oil? K.C., E-mail.

A: The engine may have lost oil pressure and continued to run while it was upside down. Not only this it’s possible that during the accident the engine over-revved. Either of these conditions could damage the cylinders, piston rings and valves. This may account for excessive oil consumption.

To find out what is causing the rise in consumption an oil consumption test needs to be done to verify the quantity of oil the engine burns. Once this is done an internal inspection of the engine using a bore scope might find scored cylinder walls or another cause for the condition. If this doesn’t find a problem the engine needs partial disassembly to determine the cause of the condition.

Gather all your receipts for oil changes and preventive maintenance to prove you have changed the engine oil and filter and performed other services on a regular basis. Submit copies of these to your insurance company so they can verify the maintenance. Then ask them to investigate the cause of the oil consumption. If investigation verifies damage caused by the accident the insurance company should repair or replace the engine.

Taillight Circuit Needs Repair

Q: There is a problem in the left taillight of my 1992 Dodge Dakota. When I apply the brakes the lamp glows dimly. The right taillight is nice and bright. When I apply the brakes when the headlamps are turned on the left taillight fades out. Also, when I use the turn signals the left taillight flashes dimly and slowly. The right works fine.

I’ve checked the bulb and socket and found no problem. I also replaced the turn signal flasher to no avail. Can you help? L.D.G., Chicago, IL.

A: This appears to be caused by a faulty ground connection. There likely is a black wire in the harness for both the right and left taillights. Trace the black wire to the ground. The wire runs from the impaired bulb to the backup lamp and then to a common ground connection for both the left and right taillights. Since the right taillight works fine start probing at the left assembly and work your way back. More than likely corrosion impairs the ground connection.

To fix the problem may mean renewing the wiring or perhaps a thorough cleaning of the common ground connection for both taillights.

Suspicious Ignition Switch

Q: Once in a while my 1987 Ford Crown Victoria won’t start right away. Once it starts it’s fine. At other times it starts right up but after I drive miles or so it stalls. No lights turn on when it stalls it just stalls. Once it stalls if I wait a few minutes the engine starts and there isn’t a problem for the rest of the day.

I had the fuel pump checked and it’s ok. A new fuel filter, alternator, battery, battery cables have been installed all to no avail. Do you have any idea what’s wrong? S.B., E-mail.

A: Normally when an engine stalls the dash lights illuminate and the car coasts to a stop. Your lights don’t turn on. This is highly unusual and indicates a sudden lose of electrical power. Since the battery and cables have been replaced consider having a technician check the ignition switch. It may have a fault that turns off the engine. If this is found to be true replacement is the cure.

Faulty Starter Circuit Starts Trouble With Boss

Q: About once every three months my 1997 Lincoln Town Car Executive model with 166,000 miles won’t start. I turn the ignition key to start the engine and all that happens is the dash lights turn on and then go completely blank when I hit the start position but the starter is completely silent. When I release the ignition key from the start position the dash lights turn back on. Each time this happens if I wait 30 minutes or so the car will start normally and run fine for three months when the trouble seems to appear again.

I’ve taken the car to my local dealer but was told that nothing can be done unless the car is acting up at the time it’s in the shop.

Currently I’m under a very strict work schedule so any delay causes problems between me and my supervisor. Can you help? R.J.N., Bartlett, Neb.

A: Tell your supervisor to bug-off. I’m just kidding of course. I wouldn’t want you to lose your job but wouldn’t it be nice? Your car is your link to employment. A check of diagnostic trouble codes might send a sharp technician down a diagnostic path. However, if the check engine light has not turned on at any time during your travels it’s not likely the computer has stored a trouble code that indicates which circuit is the source of this condition. Be this as it may a computer check wouldn’t hurt.

If no trouble codes are stored in the computer check the battery cables for security and corrosion. Thoroughly clean corrosion from all connections. If corrosion has infiltrated the cables replace them.

Check all the connections in the starter circuit including ground connections for security and corrosion. A loose connection might be to blame for this condition but be sure to check for corrosion such as rust in between electrical terminals especially at ground connections. Repair as needed.

Once the circuit has been thoroughly inspected and corrected as needed your concerns should be over and you should be in the good graces of your boss.

No Go From Glow Plugs

Q: My 1990 Chevrolet G30 van with a 6.2 liter diesel engine and 160,000 miles dies when I start it. I might have to start it four times before it keeps running. Once it stays running it’s fine. What’s up? P.B., Osceola, Wis.

A: Your diesel van is just now getting broken in with only 160,000 miles. It might last another 20 years. As for the stalling, there might be a problem with the glow plugs. Since the glow plugs are only turned on for a brief time to get the engine running there might be a failure of one or more glow plugs. Have them checked. The timer might be faulty or a glow plug might have failed. Replace parts if necessary.

It is also possible there is trouble in the fuel system. There may be a lack of fuel pressure. This might be caused by a faulty regulator valve, fuel pump or perhaps the injector pump. Since the trouble appears only during starts it is more likely than not that the regulator has a fault. Ask an experienced technician to check it out. To do this the vehicle should be left at a shop overnight so he can check fuel pressure loss while the vehicle is parked for an extended period.

Diagnostic Test May Find Cure

Q: The engine in my 2001 Acura MDX with 53,000 miles runs very rough when the RPMs are just below 2,000. If I accelerate or decelerate the engine runs and responds well. At this time there are no warning lights.

Do you have any idea what’s wrong? K.C., E-mail.

A: You need a new car. As usual I’m just kidding. All kidding aside if you give your Acura tender loving care dealer salespeople may not see you in the showroom for another ten years or more.

As for the trouble, it wouldn’t hurt to have a computer diagnostic test performed. You state that there are no warning lights on right now. This gives me the impression that a light has shined in the past. There is a good possibility there are diagnostic trouble codes stored in the computer. A test might find misfire diagnostic codes that will guide a technician to the source of the trouble.

What needs to be done to cure this condition may be as simple as replacing the spark plug wires and spark plugs or a little more involved such as cleaning the exhaust gas recirculation ports and replacing the intake manifold gasket. Tests will set the course to repair.

Cruise Control Has Limitations

Q: In a recent column there was a question about Dynamic Laser Cruise Control on a Toyota Sienna XLE. In the column you included a quote from the reader that stated that it is an expensive but useless option. I strongly disagree. I also have a 2004 Sienna with the laser control system. I love it. I drive from Wisconsin to southern California every fall and return each spring. The system is very reliable and the added safety is its strongest point. You can’t rear-end another vehicle even in fog. I’ve tried and it works. Also, if someone cuts me off an alarm sounds and the brakes apply automatically. In addition to this the inability to use the system in snow and rain is no big deal because you probably should not use cruise control in those conditions anyway.

I enjoy your column. What are your thoughts? D.P., Amery, Wis.

A: The reader to which you refer is very dissatisfied with the cruise control in his Sienna. He uses the system in snowy and wet weather and the system fails as a result of sensors that are obscured by the conditions.

You are very satisfied with the system and understand its limitations. You probably read your owner’s guide that explains use of the system and its limitations. You also are correct not to use the cruise control when roads are slick in snow, ice and rain. These conditions may cause a loss of traction that could cause an accident. The use of cruise control under these conditions may cause wheel spin and make controlling the vehicle extremely difficult. Also, sometimes during freezing temperatures bridge surfaces may develop ice. If the cruise control is controlling vehicle speed watch out, the drive wheels can lose traction and send the vehicle right off a bridge.

Brake Work Leads To Shimmy

Q: Recently I took my 2002 Buick with 75,000 miles to a dealer for new rear brakes. The car tracked perfectly before the repairs but afterwards the car had a shimmy. I returned to the dealer where the rear tires were balanced for free. Despite this the shimmy continues.

What’s the cause? J.R., West Saint Paul, Minn.

A: More investigation needs to be done. To determine the cause of the shimmy explain to dealer personnel when you feel the condition. Perhaps it only occurs when you apply the brakes. If this is the case it’s possible that one of the rear brake rotors is not true. If so it may need replacement or maybe it needs to be machined if there is enough metal remaining to machine.

It’s also possible that the wheel lugs were not properly tightened and this has caused the condition you feel. If this is true machining the rotors might be the cure or perhaps shims need to be added to the rotors.

If you feel the shimmy driving along at a certain speed without touching the brakes it’s possible a tire is out of balance in the front or back. It’s also possible there is a problem with one of the tires such as a bubble or broken belt internally in the tread. If such a condition exists, the afflicted tire should be replaced.