Wheels
Low voltage may be cause of dimness
BY PHIL ARENDT
For Wheels

Q: When driving my 1992 Lincoln Town car during daytime hours with the headlights turned on, the instrument lights are so dim I can’t read the speedometer. At night the instrument lights illuminate without any problem. I checked all the fuses. They are fine. What’s wrong? A.T.S., Sparks , Nev.


A: First of all, dim digital lights are characteristic in your make vehicle. When your car was built, the dash lights were not designed with bright lights for daytime use with the headlamps turned on. However, there might be a malfunction. If you have the illumination level turned all the way to the brightest level, you should be able to read the electronic dash although dimly. A check of the voltage to the lights by a qualified technician should determine if there is a fault. If so, there may be a poor connection due to corrosion or loose connection. It’s also possible there is a fault in the instrument cluster. If so, the cluster likely will need replacement.

Diagnostic tests may also find that a module is not functioning as designed or perhaps there is a problem in the headlamp circuit.

If there is a malfunction, repair all depends on what a technician finds.

Simultaneous application of brake and gas pedal

Q: When I apply the brakes in my 2004 Jeep Cherokee, my foot sometimes simultaneously hits the accelerator pedal. This has caused several near accidents. I had the truck checked by my Jeep dealer and I have been referred to Chrysler Corporation without receiving any help. My previous car was a 1995 Ford Explorer and I never had this problem in that car.

Can you help resolve this problem before something serious happens? W.L.T., e-mail

A: If dealer personnel have inspected the brake and accelerator assemblies to find that they are operating as designed, there is nothing they can repair. Installation of new parts will put them in the same position as the original parts. Despite this, it’s feasible the brake pedal height position is too low as a result of excessively worn brakes, an out-of-adjustment push rod, the rear brakes may need adjustment or perhaps there is a malfunction in the power brake booster. A technician might consider these possible causes and take appropriate action.

It’s also possible that you might have to make some changes. Perhaps it is necessary for you to get into the habit of moving your right foot farther to the left when applying the brake pedal. Perhaps your shoes are extra wide and a different style shoe may resolve the situation. Perhaps installation of specialized hand controls will reduce the hazard.

Transmission performs tricks

Q: Recently the computer was replaced in my 2000 Mazda MPV. Shortly after this, the automatic transmission began to act up so I had the fluid changed. This didn’t cure the trouble. This resulted in a transmission overhaul.

Now the newly overhauled transmission has a problem. When slowing for a stop, if I accelerate before coming to a full stop, the transmission downshifts into low gear. Then it upshifts to another gear and stays in that gear until I release the gas pedal.

I took the vehicle back to the shop that did the overhaul but diagnostic tests found nothing wrong. Can you help? J.Z., e-mail

A: There may be a loose or corroded electrical connection. A technician might consider a thorough inspection of the plugs and wiring. If there is a loose pin in a plug or a poor ground connection, the transmission will perform some unusual tricks. Repair could be as simple as repositioning a wire harness or tightening a ground connection.

Also, since transmission shifts are controlled by a computer, it may have a faulty plug, or perhaps the computer needs reprogramming.

Poor battery cable impairs starter

Q: The starter in my 1988 Ford Taurus with 85,000 miles has been replaced twice with a starter of the best quality I could find. There now is a third starter in the car and it too is showing signs of failure. Technicians have checked the connections and didn’t find any problems.

My car starts instantly when I turn the ignition so it is not like the starter has to do a lot of work. What is causing the starters to fail so frequently? N.H., e-mail

A: Your 18-year-old vehicle is a testament as to just what can happen to a car of this age. Actually what might be the trouble would likely have occurred sooner. Ask a technician to check the battery cables. Perhaps one or both have been attacked by corrosion that has slowly made its way deep down into the cable strands under the insulation. This increases resistance and also causes the starter to draw more current than designed. This will cause premature failure. If this is the case installation of new cables will likely solve the trouble. Also, the starter might need replacement again.

 

Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and

ASE-certified master technician.

E-mail him on the Web at

http://www.drgizmo.ws.

 

 


Thanks for all of your great questions. Dr. Gizmo looks forward to more.

Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and

ASE-certified master technician.

E-mail him on the Web at http://www.drgizmo.ws.

 

 


Appeared in July 22, 2006 issue of Wheels, a product of the Dayton Daily News