Hamilton Journal-News

Q: Recently I closed the windows in my 1999 Ford Crown Victoria using the accessory position on the ignition. Unfortunately, I left the ignition switch in that position all night. The battery, of course, was dead the next morning and AAA jump-started the car.

After the jump the red battery warning dash light turned on. I took the car to a dealer where a technician determined that the battery was fine but the alternator needed replacing. I authorized the work but I took the car to another shop to have a new battery installed as a precaution.

Until recently everything has been fine, except now occasionally the red battery warning light turns on. I can tell there is a problem because when I’m stopped at a light the headlights dim and the heater fan slows down. I took the car back to the dealer that installed the alternator, but I’m told there is no problem. What do you think is wrong? D.S., Reno , Nev.

A: The fact that the warning light illuminates is an indication that the alternator is not keeping pace with electrical demands. Since a new battery was installed, be sure that it is fully charged. Often a newly installed battery does not have a full state-of-charge. If you have a trickle charger, charge the battery overnight. It is good for the battery to charge at a slow rate until it is fully charged.

Once the battery is fully charged, the serpentine belt should be examined for excessive wear and proper tension. If the belt is worn, replace it. If the automatic tensioning system is not keeping the belt within factory tension specifications, replace the tensioner pulley.

When the battery and belt are up to specifications, check the electrical output of the alternator. If it is not within factory specifications, it should be replaced. Since this is a newly installed alternator, the cost of replacement should be covered under a replaced parts warranty.

Leak in evaporative vapor system

Q: I purchased my 1998 Acura Integra when it was new. It now has 157,000 miles and has never given me trouble, except for the last four years the check engine light has been on. Four times technicians have checked out the problem. Twice after paying a diagnostic fee, a technician said that he didn’t know what is wrong. One said that it was a problem with a purge solenoid which he replaced to no avail. After several follow-up visits, I quit going to the shop as I was frustrated.

In order for my car to pass the state emission test, I have the computer reset, but once I drive 40 miles the light turns back on. Is this a computer problem? B.P., e-mail

A: This likely is the result of a leak in the evaporative emissions system. Your vehicle processes gasoline vapors in a closed system so gasoline vapors don’t escape into the atmosphere. A leak in this system can cause the check engine light to illuminate. This can be caused by a faulty solenoid, loose gas cap, fueling the car when the engine is running or by a small leak somewhere in the system as a result of a failed seal or hose.

Often leaks are difficult and time-consuming to find. Because of this, not all shops have the equipment to pinpoint a leak. You might find an independent shop has the equipment and manpower to determine the cause, but more than likely a dealer has the diagnostic equipment and a talented technician to tackle this problem.

Once a leak is found, repair may take only a few minutes or it may entail removal of the gas tank which requires more time. The cost of diagnosis and repair for this type of problem can be expensive, but depending upon the environmental laws in your state, you might have to have this problem repaired for the vehicle to comply with the law.

Broken clock spring disables airbags

Q: The horn and cruise control don’t work in my 1997 Town and Country van. Also, the airbag light is on. I tried to fix the trouble by replacing the fuses, but this didn’t cure the problem.

A friend told me that the cause of the problem is inside the steering wheel. Can you help? M.M., Austin , Minn.

A: From your description of the trouble, there may be more than one problem. There is a part named a clock spring in the steering column that might be broken. This will disable the airbags and horn. The repair involves replacement of the part. This requires disassembly of the steering wheel, but there is good news. Many vehicles with this problem were recalled. Contact a dealer. Your vehicle may qualify for this repair under the recall. If so, you won’t have to pay for this repair.

As for the cruise control, the multifunction switch should be tested for faults. It’s possible it needs replacement. There are also other parts in the cruise control that might have failed, but the multifunction switch is the No. 1 suspect. Testing might verify failure. If so, the steering column covers need removal to replace the part. You might as well have this cured when the clock spring is replaced.


Parasitic Discharge Is Normal

Q: I believe that few weeks ago you addressed a parasite current drain on newer cars that results in a battery failure. If I’m right about this is there any way I can access the article on the internet? R.L., e-mail

A: It’s been a while since the question and answer you mention was in the newspaper. You can read past Dr. Gizmo columns on the internet on the Dr. Gizmo website at www.drgizmo.ws. There is a calendar feature that posts columns on Mondays. Current columns that appear in the newspaper do not appear on the web site for a couple of months. If you want the latest columns read the newspaper or visit newspaper web sites to access the column.

As for parasitic discharge, the computers in modern vehicles require small amounts of electrical power. Over a period of vehicle non-use or if the vehicle is driven short distances the power draw can drain the battery to the point the engine won’t start. The length of time before a battery discharges depends on ambient temperature, the complexity and equipment on the vehicle, the age of the battery and how the vehicle is used. There is no repair for this as this is a normal electrical load on the battery.

There are conditions that can be abnormal. If electrical equipment power draw exceeds factory specifications there is a fault in the system. This could be caused by a variety of factors but a technician can test the system to determine what is causing the excessive power draw and replace the part that is using too much power.

In many instances aftermarket equipment such as cell phones, mp3 players, DVD players, aftermarket radio equipment, radar detectors and other devices draw power from the battery so it’s important to disconnect devices such as these when the vehicle is not in use.

Since a parasitic discharge can also be the result of a dirty battery it’s important to keep it clean. To do this you can purchase cleaning chemicals available at most auto supply stores. Just follow the directions on the product. You can also use soap and water or a baking soda and water solution and a soft plastic brush to remove the acidic grime that often develops on the battery case.

Stuck In Overdrive

Q: The overdrive light in my 1999 Nissan Frontier with a 4-cylinder engine stays on but the overdrive in the transmission is engaged. I don’t mind driving the vehicle all the time when it is in overdrive but I fear this is harming the vehicle.

Is this something I should be concerned about? What would cause the light to constantly be on? W.S., West Chester, Ohio.

A: Operating overdrive full-time is not harmful to the vehicle. The transmission is designed to engage overdrive when cruising. However, if you drive with heavy loads such as pulling a trailer or driving on steep grades the overdrive feature should be turned off. This is to prevent the transmission from overheating and provide engine braking when driving in hilly terrain. Since you can’t disengage the feature by taping the button avoid these conditions.

The trouble might be the result of a sticky valve inside the transmission. A transmission flush might cure the trouble. It’s also possible there is a faulty connection in the circuit that controls the overdrive function. Testing by a certified technician should be able to determine the cause and suggest a lasting cure.

Project Truck Needs New Throttle Linkage

Q: I have a 1964 Chevrolet C-10 pickup truck that I purchased in 1979. I’ve been restoring the vehicle since 1989 and drive it very little. I took the 6-cylinder engine out and replaced it with a 283 c.i.d. V-8. I used the throttle linkage from the 6-cylinder engine on the V-8. Now I have discovered that the carburetor does not fully open.

Since I don’t use the truck much should I add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank? Do you think I should replace the throttle linkage? Also, if the carburetor floods will this ruin the spark plugs? P.C., Norfolk, Va.

A: In your letter you stated that the truck was recently painted, carburetor repaired and more. You have done a lot of work on this project vehicle.

For proper throttle operation the throttle linkage should be replaced with linkage meant for a V-8 engine. You might find it on the internet.

As for using fuel stabilizer this also might be a good idea. Make sure to follow the directions on the container of the product you decide to use.

As for the spark plugs, they will foul if the carburetor floods the engine. If this occurs replace the spark plugs. Also, if the flooding condition was severe gasoline likely contaminated the engine oil. If this has happened you might detect a gasoline odor in the oil. An oil and filter change will help prevent damage to engine bearings of your recently installed V-8.

Thanks for all of your great questions. Dr. Gizmo looks forward to more.

 

Phil Arendt is an automotive columnist, consultant and

ASE-certified master technician.

E-mail him on the Web at

http://www.drgizmo.ws.