Hamilton Journal-News

Q:The heater often doesn’t work in my 2000 Chrysler minivan with 74,000 miles on it. When this happens, I find that the coolant reservoir is empty. The heat returns when I fill the reservoir with antifreeze and water. Now I have to add fluid to the reservoir every few hundred miles.

I took the van to three different garages. No coolant leaks were found. I called Chrysler, but the representative couldn’t help me. Can you? F.J., e-mail

A: Antifreeze just doesn’t disappear. There must be a leak. Apparently technicians who inspected the vehicle did not find any exterior leaks from hoses, gaskets, the coolant reservoir, radiator or perhaps the water pump. Also, a leak apparently isn’t causing any drips on your driveway or garage floor. Since this appears to be true, there must be an internal leak in the engine.
Internal leaks are more difficult to find, but a technician can inspect the electrode end of the spark plugs for signs of engine coolant. Often a spark plug that is the color of the engine coolant is a good sign of an internal leak. Also, if a technician examines the cylinders with a bore scope, he or she may observe coolant leaking past a gasket or through a crack. Sometimes a coolant odor can be detected in the engine exhaust. Coolant residue also may be found on the exhaust system tailpipe. Often coolant can be found on the inside of the valve covers as a milky substance on the oil fill cap.

This type of leak might be the result of a leaky plenum gasket, failed cylinder head gasket, cracked cylinder head, cracked cylinder or engine block. The repair depends on what a technician finds. The cost of repair also depends on the extent of damage caused by the leak and where it is. Let’s hope the engine doesn’t need replacement.

Multiple causes for misfire

Q: The engine in my 2001 Nissan Altima is misfiring and feels as though it is going to stall but it doesn’t. What could cause this? Can I fix it myself? J.O., e-mail

A: An engine misfire should illuminate the check engine light. A computer test should determine which cylinders are misfiring.
This could be caused by excessively worn spark plugs, failed ignition coil, dirty or failed fuel injectors, failed spark plug wires, a poor electrical connection, broken engine valve, faulty exhaust gas recirculation valve or maybe heavy carbon deposits in the engine.

If you are electro-mechanically inclined and have the tools and equipment to repair the trouble, tackle the job yourself. If not, explain the trouble to an experienced technician and authorize diagnostic work to determine the cause of the condition. Once this is accomplished, he or she should be able to explain what needs to be repaired to get your car back to normal operation.

Put a hold on the purchase

Q: I’m in the market to purchase a 2005 Ford Explorer. I found one that I really like but during a test drive I heard a humming noise from the rear. I turned off the radio and listened to the sound. It seemed to pick up with speed and when I took my foot off the gas or placed the transmission in neutral, the humming stopped.

The truck only has 23,000 miles on it. It has a 4.0-liter engine and four-wheel drive. What’s your advice? D.S., e-mail

A: It’s possible the noise is caused by a failing differential pinion, bearing or perhaps failing ring gear. Ask the selling party for authorization to seek an independent inspection of the vehicle by an experienced technician, who will check it over and take it for a test drive.

If the tech verifies a problem in the differential, you can use this as a tool to negotiate a lower purchase price or ask to have the problem repaired before you purchase the vehicle. If dealer personnel do not authorize an independent inspection, pass on the purchase.

I know you probably are excited about this vehicle, but there are lots of Explorers for sale.

A dab of grease is priceless repair

Q:During the last few months when backing out of my driveway I hear a clunking sound coming from the front of my 1998 Ford Crown Victoria. It happens when I turn the wheels and the car drops off a curb at the foot of my driveway. There is no noise from the front of the car while I’m driving.

I have taken the car to several mechanics who have stated that there is nothing wrong. They say it is caused by stops in the steering.
I’m really scared to drive the car as I think something is wrong in the front-end. Is there a charge for your service? What’s wrong with my car? D.T., Plainfield, ILL.

A:This service is priceless, but for the price of a newspaper it’s practically free because you belong to a very special fraternity of Dr. Gizmo readers.

It’s likely the mechanics who inspected your car are correct. There are stops in the steering that can create noise when the suspension bounces with the wheels turned.

Perhaps 50 cents worth of grease will end your concern. Ask a technician to spread a dab of high temperature grease on the stops. Once this accomplished the clunking likely will stop. If so there is no need to send money.

Letters make my day and your gratitude is worth a mountain of gold to me. But if you are so inclined, send a donation to a charity your newspaper supports.

Computer Glitch Stalls Engine

Q:When the engine in my 2002 Jeep Liberty is cold it starts fine and idles fast as it should. As I’m driving along and the engine warms the engine stalls when I come to stop signs or lights. The engine restarts without trouble but will die at each stop. When this happens the check engine light never turns on.

I took the car to my dealer but after two days of probing the mechanic did not come up with a solution. Can you help? A.B., Luck, Wis.

A:I can’t help myself. Is Luck, Wisconsin near Good Luck and a Bad Luck? If so you’d better take your car to Good Luck to have it repaired.

The trouble the technician probably had is that he didn’t drive the vehicle with test equipment in hand when the trouble surfaced. He likely tested the vehicle before the engine reached full operating temperature right in the repair shop. Under these conditions his test equipment will not find the cause of the stalling.

It’s also possible since the check engine light is not turning on that a glitch in the vehicle’s computer is not communicating with test equipment. This could be caused by a faulty connection or there might be trouble in the computer.

Ask a qualified technician to consider this the next time you take the vehicle to a shop.

Preventive Maintenance Prevents Trouble

Q:Recently I brought my Buick to a dealer for service. The service person said I should replace the fuel filter. He also said to flush the transmission, brake fluid, power steering fluid and service the fuel induction system. I looked in my manual and did not find any reference to these maintenance services.

Are they trying to generate more business? D.D., St. Paul, Minn.

A:Preventive maintenance is just that. It’s designed to help prevent potential problems and make sure your car is running to its full potential. If you follow the severe service schedule you might find that urban travel and weather extremes such as in your neck of the woods the transmission should be flushed around 50,000 miles.

Also, if the brakes have been replaced the brake fluid should have been flushed during the brake work. If not since brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture it should be flushed to preserve the integrity of seals and prevent corrosion of internal metal parts such as the master cylinder, brake calipers, wheel cylinder and brake lines.

As for flushing the power steering, unless the fluid foams, is excessively worn or is contaminated it doesn’t need a flush.

A fuel induction service probably is a good idea if you never had this done. The purpose is to remove dirt, pollen and deposits from sensors that control engine idle, fuel economy and power. However, this is not necessary but will help prevent problems such as engine stalling, poor starts and fuel economy loss.

As for the fuel filter, this should be changed. A dirty fuel filter will stop the car dead in its tracks. It won’t give you any warning. Also, a dirty fuel filter causes the fuel pump to work extra hard. Often a dirty fuel filter causes the fuel pump to fail. In 52,000 miles the filter has removed contamination from lots of fuel. To prevent problems replace it soon.

Test Before Replacing Parts

Q:When I start my 1993 Jeep Cherokee the engine starts and then it stalls. I took the vehicle to a mechanic who recommended replacing the fuel pump. I purchased a used pump and installed it but the stalling continued. Now the mechanic recommends installing a new fuel pump.
Do you think the fuel pump is the cause of the stalling or is there another problem related to the fuel pump? F.A., e-mail

A:It appears that you are visiting a mechanic, explaining the trouble and he’s guessing that the fuel pump is the cause of the trouble. Then you purchase parts, install the part and when the trouble isn’t fixed you return to the mechanic for more advice. Now he’s telling you to install a new fuel pump. This is not the way to fix the problem. You are lucky he’s not telling you to install a new engine.

First the fuel pump should be tested to find out if it is the cause of the problem. If so install a new fuel pump. It’s also possible that the fuel filter is clogged. A test would determine if this is true. In your vehicle a fuel pressure drop of about 5 pounds from one side of the filter to the other is an indication that the filter is dirty and needs replacement.

There may be other faults causing the engine to stall such as a lack of spark at the spark plugs. Check for spark. If the spark plugs are not firing it’s feasible a failed crankshaft sensor, ignition coil, distributor cap, ignition module, distributor rotor, failed ignition resistor or perhaps a failed engine computer is the cause of the condition. Inspection and testing of these components might find one of the parts to be the root of the trouble.

Services Not On Factory Preventive Maintenance Schedule

Q:Last month I took my 2001 Pontiac Sunfire with 70,200 miles to a dealer for service. When the work was completed I reviewed the invoice and it said that the brake fluid and power steering fluid should be flushed. When I asked how much this would cost one service was $70 and the other was $80.

I’m retired and living on a fixed income and don’t want to damage my car, but I don’t want to spend any unnecessary money. I have never heard of these services before. What is the reason for this work and what benefit would it be? L.P., St. Paul, Minn.

A:After a review of the factory severe service maintenance schedule there was no mention of the two services recommended to you.
However, the brake fluid should be flushed when the brakes are replaced. With 70,000 miles on your car it’s likely the brakes have been replaced. Review the invoice for that work. It should indicate that the brake fluid was flushed. If not it would be a good idea to have the service performed.

Brake fluid has a tendency to become contaminated with water. This causes corrosion internally in the hydraulic system. This can cause hydraulic leaks that could cause the brakes to fail. A flush will be a preventive measure.

As for the power steering fluid flush, this is not necessary unless a technician summoned a laboratory analysis of the fluid. If a lab analysis found that the power steering fluid is contaminated or is excessively worn there is no automotive benefit to have the fluid flushed.

Cleaning Cure-All

Q:Until recently my 1986 Audi 5000CS turbo with 140,000 miles has been running well. Lately when waiting at a stoplight the engine idle drops and the engine stalls. I can keep the engine running if I press on the accelerator. This only happens when the transmission is in drive. If the transmission is in reverse, neutral or park the engine idles at around 800 RPM.

What could cause this? T.H., Anaheim, Calif.

A:While a stalling engine can be dangerous and annoying there likely is a simple cure. It’s possible there are deposits in the throttle body that are impairing its performance. A thorough chemical cleaning might be in order. If this doesn’t cure the trouble ask an experienced technician to check for computer trouble codes. This will direct him to the failed circuit or part that is causing this condition.

Warm-up Not Needed

Q:I work at a beautiful state park in Orange County, California. The park fleet vehicles are all under 10 years old. Some are powered by diesel engines and some by gasoline engines.

I have an ongoing dispute with my co-workers about warming-up the vehicles before driving them. I say a vehicle can be driven as soon as it is started. They say that a vehicle should be warmed up to operating temperature before driving. I would agree with them if we worked in Nome, Alaska or if a vehicle needed to pull a heavy load but this is not the case here at the state park.

What’s your advice? G.G.B., Irvine, Calif.

A:Tell your co-workers to pay up. An engine warms faster if it is driven right after starting. On an extremely cold day such as would be the case in Nome, Alaska or even Chicago, Illinois it would be a good idea to start the engine and wait a few seconds before driving. Then, drive cautiously for the first mile or so.

On really frigid days it may take 10 miles of travel before an engine reaches full operating temperature. Also, you can tell them that on a frigid day an engine idling even for hours may not reach full operating temperature.

Also, there are other points to this argument. Idling for long periods of time is a waste of fuel at taxpayer’s expense. In addition to this the pollution a cold engine creates is much greater than what a hot engine emits into the air.

One other word of advice, don’t tell taxpayers and environmentalists about these issues.

Heavy Key Ring Might Stop Engine

Q:When slowing to a stop in my 2000 Cadillac STS the engine stalls. This has occurred at least six times in the last two months. Last October a technician replaced two sensors. This didn’t work.

On February 16th I took the car to a dealership where a technician replaced a valve, gasket and battery cable. He also drove the car 150 miles without it stalling. Despite these repairs the car stalled again on February 22nd while I was slowing to make a turn.

The car is now at the dealership. Can you help? J.P., Inver Grove Heights, Minn.

A:While a stalling engine is dangerous and annoying the trouble can be repaired. The trouble might be the result of faulty connections at the powertrain control module. Perhaps heavy carbon deposits are in the passages related to the exhaust gas recirculation valve. Maybe one of the newly installed sensors has a fault. Perhaps there is a faulty ground wire. Maybe the idle air control valve needs cleaning or replacement. It’s feasible the fuel pressure regulator is malfunctioning. It’s also possible the circuit to the fuel injectors or the fuel pump has a fault. More probing will find the cause.

Recently I found a vehicle with a stalling problem that was caused by a faulty ignition switch. Also, on more than one occasion the weight of the key ring has turned the ignition lock from the run position to the accessory position causing the engine to stall. This occurred during stops and turns. Ask a technician to consider all of these possibilities.

Report Noise To Higher Authority

Q:The power steering in my 2002 Dodge Caravan has been making noise for quit some time. Dealer personnel replaced a power steering hose that was recalled. Also, the power steering pump has been replaced. This work helped reduce the noise a little but occasionally it surfaces.

After searching the internet I found that many Caravan owners have complained about the power steering noise. No one has any way to resolve the problem. What can I do to stop the noise? D., Red Bud, Ill.

A:Hello fellow Illinois citizen. I have visited Red Bud. You are just down the road from St. Louis.

Dealer personnel replaced the power steering hose to thwart a potential fire hazard. The hose had a defect that might have caused a fiery fluid leak.

Dealer personnel also addressed the most common reason for a power steering noise. A faulty pump usually is the cause. Now, they need to do more probing. It’s possible the fluid is foaming. If so it needs flushing. It’s also possible that the sound will be squelched by repositioning the hoses so that they don’t touch each other. This might take some experimentation.

In the meantime, contact Chrysler Corporation and tell them in writing of your concern. They will refer you to the dealer for more probing of the condition. Also, consider contacting the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration to file a concern. The noise might be a sign the newly installed pump is failing. If it does, it will be more difficult to steer the vehicle raising a safety issue. This might launch an investigation which could eventually lead to another recall.