Hamilton Journal-News

Q: Recently I saw a TV show about blind spots behind sport-utility vehicles and vans. Postal trucks have all kinds of mirrors that aid a driver to see what’s behind them.

I don’t understand why it isn’t mandatory to have mirrors like those used on postal trucks installed on vans and SUVs. The use of these mirrors would save a lot of lives. What gives? L.A.B., Norfolk, Va.

A: Many cars, SUVs and vans do come with electronic devices built into the front and rear bumpers that are designed to alert a driver to objects near the vehicle. As a vehicle backs up or moves forward, sensors in the bumpers activate an audible sound in the cockpit so a driver knows if something is behind or in front of the vehicle as the vehicle backs up or moves forward. Systems such as this are either standard or optional equipment. Unfortunately, these devices are not available on all vehicles.

Also, some vehicles are equipped with a camera system that provides a view of blind spots particularly behind a vehicle.

In addition to all of this, aftermarket suppliers offer all kinds of mirrors and electronic devices that can be installed on a vehicle to help a driver overcome blind spots. However, I am not aware of a law that makes devices such as these mandatory.

HVAC vent malfunction

Q: The heating and air conditioning blower runs fine in my 1999 Ford F-250 super-duty truck with a diesel engine, but the air only blows from the defroster vents. I have checked all the fuses, and they are fine. Is a vacuum line leaking, or is there another problem? B.C., e-mail

A: This could be the result of a faulty dash function selector switch, leaky vacuum line, faulty vacuum pump motor, faulty electrical connection at the vacuum pump or poor vacuum pump ground wire connection.

It’s also possible the vacuum reservoir tank has a small crack or a vacuum line is restricted.

To find the cause, it would be best to follow a troubleshooting flow chart in a factory repair manual. If you are mechanically inclined and have a multimeter and shop manual, you should be able to diagnose and repair the trouble. More than likely, if the pump is functioning as designed, you will find a fault in the vacuum circuit.

Oxygen sensor may not be faulty

Q: Four times in the last two years the oxygen sensor in my 1994 Dodge Spirit has needed replacement. The last one that was replaced was an original equipment part from a Chrysler dealer. This part has lasted the longest but now the check engine light has illuminated again. Why does this happen so frequently? G.K., e-mail

A: Don’t jump to conclusions just yet. It’s possible that there is another malfunction and not a failed oxygen sensor that is causing the check engine light to illuminate.

An oxygen sensor usually fails because the sensitive tip that is exposed to engine exhaust becomes fouled. This could happen if the engine has excessive carbon. Perhaps the engine consumes excessive amounts of oil. Maybe there is an internal coolant leak as a result of a failed cylinder head gasket. Perhaps chemicals have been introduced through the intake plenum or gasoline that harmed the oxygen sensor. Maybe a sensor was faulty from the factory or just maybe it was improperly installed.

As for the problem that exists, tests can determine whether or not the check engine light is illuminated as a result of a failed oxygen sensor, but just maybe there is another sensor, such as a failed temperature sensor, that triggers the light.

Engine puffs high-mileage oil

Q: My 1994 Ford Crown Victoria with a 4.6 liter V-8 engine and 103,000 miles uses a quart of oil every 800 miles. As a result of this condition I switched from conventional 10W-40 oil to high-mileage oil.

I used the high-mileage oil during three oil change cycles. During this time the engine continued to use a quart every 800 miles, but in addition blue smoke puffed from the exhaust. Since the high-mileage oil seemed to cause the smoke I switched back to the previously used 10W-40 oil. When I did, the blue smoke stopped puffing from the exhaust system.

Is there any advantage to using high-mileage oil? G.C., Harvard, IL.

A: So far high-mileage oil has not shown any great advantages over conventional oil. This is especially true in your case. As you have found high-mileage oil doesn’t fix excessive engine wear. The only way to cure an oil consumption condition is to tear into the engine and replace the worn parts that allow excessive oil into the combustion chambers.

The condition in your engine might be caused by excessively worn valve guides, seals or perhaps piston oil rings. There are other factors such as out-of-round cylinders, excessively worn cylinders and piston rings that can cause excessive oil consumption. Conditions such as these usually don’t surface until well after 100,000 miles. This is especially true if an engine has received proper preventive maintenance and has not undergone severe driving conditions.

At a loss for replacement part

Q: My 1994 Chrysler LeBaron convertible has less than 100,000 miles on it. Recently, I had a new top installed and the car looks and runs great, except now the antilock brake system has failed.

As a result of the trouble, I took the car to a local tire and repair shop. After a technician checked over the car, I was told that he couldn’t fix the problem. I then towed the vehicle to my local Chrysler dealer. It was there for 12 days. On the twelfth day I received a call from a shop representative who told me that they could not fix the car because the part needed to repair the trouble is no longer available. He suggested that I donate the car to charity.

I sent a letter and called Chrysler Corp., but was not successful in getting the needed replacement part. Now I have placed an advertisement in my newspaper requesting the part and a mechanic to install them, but I have not had any luck.

My car is parked collecting dust. Do you have any suggestions? R.D., Fort Washington, Md.

A: There is a misconception that carmakers are required to have replacement parts available for 10 years. They are not.

If you know which part you need, you might consider placing ads in car buff magazines. Also, maybe someone on eBay has the part. You might also check with local aftermarket auto part stores, contact Chrysler dealers in other parts of the country or perhaps check auto salvage dealers. One of these entities might be the source for the part you are searching for.

Foam rubber showers front seat occupants

Q: When using the air conditioner in my 1994 Cadillac, small bits of oily foam rubber blow from the vents on to the front seats. Is there a filter that needs cleaning or replacement? B.W., Portsmouth, Va.

A: I’m at a disadvantage because you didn’t provide the model of the afflicted Cadillac, so I’m not sure if your car is equipped with a cabin filter.

Being pelted by oily foam can be a revolting development. A filter that hasn’t been replaced in 10 years probably is full of gunk from dead bugs to who knows what. Not only this, but a filthy cabin filter can restrict airflow through the heating, ventilation and air conditioning system. This could cause poor heating and cooling performance.

Ask an experienced technician to check for a cabin filter. It likely needs replacement. Also, it’s possible foam insulation or seals in the ducts might be deteriorating. As a result, bits of foam shoot from the vents. If this is true replacement of seals and insulation should end this concern.

Warm temperatures bring on transmission trouble

Q: When the temperature goes above 80 degrees, the automatic transmission in my 1994 Dodge Intrepid with 105,000 miles starts slamming into second gear. Once this happens, the transmission won’t shift into third gear. When this happens, I shut off the car for 30 minutes. Then I restart, and the transmission shifts normally until the next time the problem surfaces. I took the car to a transmission shop where a technician performed tests, but he wasn’t certain of the cause of the trouble. He thinks there is a glitch in the transmission computer. Can you help? E.R., Lake In The Hills, Ill.

A: There might be a corroded or loose electrical terminal at the powertrain computer or transmission that is causing the symptoms. It’s also possible that there is trouble within the transmission such as a faulty solenoid or sticking valve that causes transmission shifts to falter.

When the computer senses a failure, it locks the transmission in second gear. This is a fail-safe mode that allows you to drive to a place of safety.

A technician should check electrical connections and repair them if needed. Perhaps he may have to replace a wire harness, clean terminals or repair a loose terminal. It’s also possible the powertrain computer needs replacement.

If the transmission has an internal fault it is likely tests will determine trouble. If there is a problem deep within the transmission such as an excessively worn bushing the transmission will likely need an overhaul.

Concern over failed cruise control

Q: Sometimes the cruise control in my 2004 Cadillac Deville with 18,000 miles does not engage. When it engages, it works fine.

The first time I took the car to my dealer, a technician performed tests but didn’t find anything wrong. The second time I took the car to my dealer, another technician performed tests and found a faulty modulator. As a result, the part was replaced.

Will this cure the problem once and for all? M.S., Albert Lea, Minn.

A: If tests prove that the part was faulty, replacement should end your concerns. However, there is always the possibility that another part in the system will fail or the module that was replaced will fail again. There are many parts in the cruise control system, including the stop light switch, cruise control module, powertrain control module, vehicle speed sensor, steering wheel switches, electrical terminals, fuses, airbag electrical contacts and tens of feet of wiring in the system that at any moment could falter.

The likelihood of another failure anytime soon is remote, but as a car ages, odds increase that a part in the system will malfunction and the cruise control will not engage. Let’s hope it won’t happen in the next 10 or 15 years.

Troubled air conditioner

Q: The air conditioner in my 1993 Mercury Topaz quit working. I called several garages and they want $1,000 to redo the air-conditioning unit. Is it possible to put the newer Freon 134 into my car? G.H., e-mail

A: Air conditioning repair can be expensive. There must be a reason the air conditioner quit working. More than likely, refrigerant leaked from the system as a result of a failed hose, seal or part, such as the evaporator core, condenser or perhaps a metal fitting.

Leaks must be repaired. Since Freon no longer is manufactured, the system needs conversion to be compatible with the newer R-134 refrigerant. The system in your car is designed to work with Freon R-12 refrigerant and not R-134. Pumping R-134 into the system before it is converted will likely cause damage to air conditioning components and raise the cost of repair.

A conversion kit can be expensive and has to be properly installed for proper operation of the system. Ask repair shop personnel to provide an estimate for repair of the present system and ask for an estimate to convert the system to the newer refrigerant. Once you have these estimates you can decide your course of action.

Probing Problem Tires

Q: About every three months I have to replace one of the tires on my 1997 Ford Probe GT. I vaguely remember hearing about a recall regarding the rims on this car. Also, I have had nothing but problems with this car. Other people have complained to me about problems with their Probes.

Was there a recall for the wheels? Have many people complained to you about Probe problems? A.C., Dayton, Ohio

A: A check of recalls did not reveal any recalls regarding factory installed rims or wheels. Tire replacements usually are not the result of a problem wheel. Tires fail for a variety of reasons but the most common is persistent underinflation pressure.

Consider checking the tire pressure at least once a month. Inflate the tires a few pounds under the maximum inflation pressure embossed on the sidewall. If the embossed pressure is 35 psi inflate between 30 and 32 psi when the tires are cold. The best time to inflate the tires is after the car has been parked all day or night and driven less than a mile to an air pump. Perhaps proper inflation will help prolong the life of the tires and help prevent punctures and other damage.

As for readers complaining about their Probes, seldom has a letter come across my desk with tails of woe.

Overheated engine fails to start

Q: Four years ago, my son stored his 1983 BMW 533i in my garage. I drove the car 135 miles from his home to mine and parked it in the garage. At least three times a year I drove it around my neighborhood.

After being parked for so long the exhaust system rusted away and I ordered a new exhaust system. With the rotten exhaust, I drove the car to a friend’s house about 10 miles away. When I arrived, the top radiator hose blew off the radiator. I discovered the neck on the radiator had broken in half. I reinstalled the hose and filled the radiator.

As I headed home I stopped at an auto parts store to purchase new hose clamps. Two miles from home the engine overheated. I stopped and waited for it to cool down before driving the remaining two miles. Once at home I parked the car in the garage.

When the exhaust system parts arrived I attempted to drive the car to a repair shop, but the engine wouldn’t start. There doesn’t seem to be any current to the coil and spark plugs. Could a failed oxygen sensor cause this? Since I didn’t bleed air from the cooling system could this cause the engine not to start? J.A., Batavia, Ill.

A: Driving a vehicle any distance with an overheating condition can ruin an engine. Let’s hope this didn’t happen. It’s not likely that a failed oxygen sensor is causing the engine not to start, but failing to bleed air from the cooling system can cause an engine to overheat. This can cause internal damage to a cylinder head gasket that could cause the engine not to start.

Since you say there is no electrical power to the coil and spark plugs, it’s possible there is a blown fuse, broken wire, poor electrical connection, failed ignition module or even a failed computer. Perhaps a crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor has a fault.

What needs repair all depends on what has failed. For an engine to start it must have air, fuel and ignition. Check for these three basic ingredients. Once you are sure which ingredient is missing, and have verified there is a lack of electrical spark causing the condition, check the ignition system from stem to stern until you locate the failed component.

Once the ignition is repaired and the engine is running, do not operate the vehicle until the cooling system is roadworthy. From what you state, the radiator needs replacement, so don’t drive the car until the engine cooling system is operating up to factory specifications.

Do-it-yourselfer didn’t do it so well with SUV

Q: A couple of weeks ago I replaced the battery in my 1991 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 liter engine. Unfortunately I did the job in the dark and I reversed the battery cables. The battery made a popping sound and I quickly corrected the trouble.

Since the battery replacement the engine won’t start. The engine cranks normally and fuel is getting to the fuel rail but there doesn’t seem to be any fuel at the fuel injectors. If I spray starting fluid into the engine it briefly starts.

What do you think is wrong? W.T.B., Norfolk, Va.

A: This is an unfortunate mistake. By reversing the battery cables the polarity of the electrical system was reversed. In such a situation a person can’t move at the speed of light or electricity to thwart damage. Check all of the fuses. Replace blown fuses as necessary.

If the fuses are OK, a test of the fuel injectors is in order. They may have suffered damage. If so, replacement is the likely cure.

Also, there may be other damaged electrical parts such as sensors or perhaps the powertrain control module. Only testing will find failed parts. Replace components as needed.

Upset over ethanol

Q: Regularly I read letters in the newspaper about the degradation of fuel economy in cars that burn fuel with a 10 percent mixture of ethanol. A recent letter stated a 10 percent to 15 percent drop in fuel economy in cars that use ethanol blends.

Many articles I have read state that the use of ethanol does not have any benefit at all. What is the actual fuel economy loss when fueling a vehicle with ethanol blended gasoline? J.B., Minneapolis, Minn.

A: I do not know of a study that shows how much fuel economy is lost. It is widely known that ethanol does not produce as much energy as gasoline. To set up a test in a laboratory could take two identically equipped vehicles and power, one with pure gasoline and the other with gasoline with 10 percent ethanol in the blend. The vehicle fueled by pure gasoline should attain better fuel economy than the vehicle powered with ethanol in the blend.

In my own vehicles I do indeed get better fuel economy when burning fuel that does not contain 10 percent ethanol. I do venture out of the Chicago area where there is fuel that is not blended with ethanol. On these excursions, my vehicles often gain 3 miles per gallon. This is a significant gain in fuel economy based mainly on nonstop highway travel with a full load of cargo.

I can also tell you that back in the middle 1970s, when ethanol was introduced during the fuel shortage, the purpose of adding ethanol was to stretch the national fuel supply. It was not said that ethanol would increase fuel economy or at least provide the same energy as gasoline without ethanol in the blend.

Husband to the rescue

Q: My wife’s 1989 Mercury Sable with a 3.8 liter V-6 engine intermittently stalls and at times won’t start. When it does start, it runs fine until it stalls. It might run fine for 45 minutes and at other times it might only run two minutes. When it stalls, the fuel pump keeps running until the ignition key is turned off.

I checked the fuel pump pressure and it’s a constant 40 psi. I have installed a new fuel pressure regulator and a control module that I purchased at a junk yard. The computer sent diagnostic codes 87 and 95. After I replaced the parts, only diagnostic code 95 appears. Is there any way to test the engine control module? A.B., e-mail

A: The diagnostic codes you mention are related to the fuel pump circuit. Check the circuit for faults. You can perform diagnostic self tests on the fuel pump electrical plug if you follow procedures in a repair manual.

As for testing the engine computer, use a scan tool with an appropriate diagnostic module and follow procedures for the scan tool and repair manual.

Consider performing individual tests on the throttle position sensor, inertia switch and temperature sensors. Also, consider testing the fuel injectors. Tests should find the failed part and you will be a hero.

Shifty transmission

Q: The transmission in my 1995 Ford Thunderbird with 78,000 miles intermittently goes into neutral when driving at about 35 mph. This happens when I’m driving around town. When I’m on the highway, the transmission is always engaged.

The trouble began in 2000. At the time I took the car to a Ford dealership where the trouble was not found. As a result, I took the car to a local transmission repair shop where a mechanic installed a remanufactured transmission. Now the same problem has returned.

My son had a Mustang with a similar problem. The trouble in his car was cured when a mechanic installed a new fuel regulator. Do you think this might fix my car? R.E.J., Norfolk, Va.

A: From what you describe, the trouble likely is in the transmission. There may be a worn seal, faulty transmission range sensor or malfunctioning valve body.

If the transmission was installed by a national chain transmission shop, it’s possible that the trouble might be repaired under a warranty. Return to the shop that installed the transmission for diagnosis, and perhaps the repair won’t cost you a dime.

Power outage

Q: A week ago the accessory power outlets in my 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe quit working. The cigarette lighter outlet works but the accessory power outlets don’t work. I checked the fuses by the driver and they are OK. Are there more fuses I should check? What should I do? M.Z., e-mail

A: The weird thing about fuses is that a visual inspection may not reveal a blown fuse. A fuse should be checked for electrical continuity either using a test light or meter.

Also, sometimes a blown fuse in another circuit can impair another circuit, so check all of the fuses, no matter which circuits they protect. Of course, start with the fuses that protect the accessory power outlets and cigarette lighter. If they are fine, check the remaining fuses and replace as needed.

There is more than one fuse panel in the vehicle, so check the fuses in the dash and engine compartment fuse panels. Once you do this, you will find the failed fuse.

Be sure to install a new fuse that matches the amperage of the failed fuse. Do not install a larger-capacity fuse. If you do, the wiring could catch on fire.

Also, check the accessory outlets for foreign objects such as paperclips and gum wrappers. Sometimes children place items such as these in places where they don’t belong. Items such as these can blow a fuse in a millisecond.

Engine Oil Loses Its Cool

Q: I live in southern California and own a 1989 Mitsubishi MightyMax pickup truck. When I use the recommended 10W-30 oil the 2.0-liter engine overheats. This occurs about 1,500 miles after each oil change. I found that when I use 20W-50 oil the engine doesn’t overheat. What could be the problem? How can I fix it? J.G., e-mail

A: One job of the oil is to help cool the engine. Apparently after 1,500 miles of travel 10W-30 oil is not doing its job. According to my sources the engine should be lubricated with 20W-50 oil especially in the heat of southern California. Consider using 20W-50 in temperatures that remain above freezing. In the unlikely event that the temperature dips below 32 degrees for a prolonged period 10W-30 can be used.

Also, it’s possible that the crankcase is not being filled to the proper level. The correct fill at oil change time with installation of a new oil filter is 5.2 quarts, but check the level on a level surface after the engine been turned off about five minutes. This allows time for the oil to drain back into the oil pan for an accurate measurement. If needed, you can add more oil.

Classic is worth what market bears

Q: I own a 1979 Oldsmobile Salon 4-door with a V-6 engine and 99,750 miles. With few exceptions the car is in mint condition with original paint. It draws a lot of attention. I’m told that it has reached classic car status. Is it worth anything? J.E.H., Sioux City, Iowa

A: Classic car status doesn’t automatically bump up the selling price. I did a quick check. In your market the vehicle might be worth $200 as a trade-in to a dealer if you were to purchase a new car. However, on some classic car web sites similar vehicles had price tags of around $1,800.

What your car is worth all depends on what the market will bear, the overall condition of the vehicle, mileage and equipment.

Lucky find fixes car

Q: In a recent column a reader had a question about a Buick that stalled. My parents had a 1996 Buick Skylark that stalled on them all the time.The car was in and out of repair shops but no one could find the cause of the stalling.

One day the car was in a shop when the mechanic accidentally leaned against a fuse box and the engine stalled. He raised the cover of the fuse box and found three loose screws. He tightened them and my parents haven’t had a problem since.

Can you pass this on to the other Buick owner? L.S., Prescott, Wis.

A: Let’s hope P.J. is peering at the column today. The kind of problem that manifested in your parents car would likely not be found with sophisticated diagnostic equipment. This is the kind of problem that is found by accident or through the old tried and true method of jiggling and tugging on wires, harnesses and connections.

In your parent’s case the mechanic was probably pulling out his hair in frustration because he couldn’t find the trouble. When he leaned on the fuse panel he likely discovered a loose plug. Tightening the screws under the cover of the fuse panel tightened the connection between the fuse box and the associated wire harness. This indeed is quite a stroke of luck.

Father Relies On Technician Son To Fix Troubled Car

Q:I really like my 1991 Chevrolet Caprice with a 305 V-8 engine. I’d like to keep the car but it has died on me a couple of times while driving on the freeway and it stalled in a parking lot. When the engine stalls I can restart it.

Sometimes when I start the engine it runs fine and other times it starts and stalls. When the trouble occurs the check engine light does not turn on.

My son is a technician at a Chevrolet dealership. I took the car to him for repair. He replaced the exhaust gas recirculation valve but this didn’t cure the trouble. The next time I returned he replaced the fuel pump relay and fuel filter. He also checked the fuel pump, but it was fine. His work was in vain.

Now he says that he has never encountered such a problem and other technicians at the shop agree.

Can you help? J.N.D., La Palma, Calif.

A:I’m sure your son is doing everything he can to help his dad. Also, it’s probably not the first time he has run into a vehicle that is difficult to diagnose so don’t fret he will fix the trouble.

The best thing to do is switch cars for a few days. You give him your car so he can drive it and he can give you his car. When your car stalls he will be able to perform a few tests to determine the trouble. Once this is accomplished he should have a good idea what’s causing the trouble.

I’m sure your son ran diagnostic tests on the computer to determine diagnostic trouble codes but probably didn’t find any.

He should consider running tests to determine computer faults. If so there may be an internal fault in the computer, corroded connections or a loose terminal at the computer plug. Repair if necessary.

It’s also possible there is a sensor that is failing once it gets hot. Individual tests on sensors such as the throttle position sensor and crank shaft sensor might be in order.

Also, it’s possible that the fuel filter screen in the fuel tank is clogging. This screen can become covered with sediment while the engine is running and cause the engine to stall. Once the engine stalls the sediment falls off the screen and fuel begins flowing again so the engine starts and runs until the next time the screen becomes covered with sediment.

Since the trouble is intermittent it more than likely is electrical in nature and your son’s efforts should probably focus on the sensors, computer and wiring.

Oil Fresh or Stale

Q:Sometime ago you wrote in your column that stored motor oil has a life expectancy of three years. Three or more years ago I purchase several quarts of oil that I have never used. I recently poured some of it in my car.

Will anything happen to the engine? Do oil containers have freshness dates like milk containers? Should I dump the remaining quarts of oil? What should I do? O.B., South St. Paul, Minn.

A:You must have read a column written by someone else. Shame on you! Just kidding of course, but it’s not the oil that degrades it’s the additives in the oil.

It’s not an urgent situation but since the additives might not be up to snuff the oil in the engine should be changed at your next opportunity, but don’t wait too long because sludge can form as a result of failed additives in the oil blend. Not only this, but additives also prevent the oil from foaming. If oil turns to foam parts such as rod and crank shaft bearings could be ruined. This would severely damage the engine.

Also, consider taking the remaining oil to a recycling center for processing. As for freshness dates similar to those on milk containers you won’t find this on an oil container.

Technician Can’t Pinpoint Trouble

Q:My 1994 Mercury Topaz has over 100,000 miles on it. After I drive for several minutes the service engine soon light turns on. As a result twice I have taken the car to a repair shop but the mechanic claims he can’t find anything wrong and nothing registers on his test equipment. However, it isn’t long after I leave the repair shop that the light turns on again.

What’s the deal? Am I being told the truth or is something really wrong with the car? C.R., Waukegan, IL.

A:It’s obvious you are concerned over this situation. It’s likely that the last thing a technician wants to do is send you on your way in a car that is going to leave you stranded. Many technicians do subscribe and follow a formal code of ethics and it appears this technician does.

You are fortunate that he is not guessing and throwing parts in the car in an attempt to satisfy your concerns. This can be very expensive and the car likely will not be repaired.

As for the trouble, since the service engine soon light illuminates with great frequency consider leaving the vehicle with him for a day or two so he can test drive the vehicle with diagnostic equipment in hand. When the light illuminates he’ll be ready to troubleshoot the condition while it is in progress.

Once this is accomplished he may find a fault in an oxygen sensor, temperature sensor or manifold pressure sensor as a cause of your concern. If so replacement is the likely cure and you won’t have to worry about the light turning on until anytime soon.

ABS Light Shines Brightly

Q:A dashboard light illuminates in my 1996 Ford Aerostar that says rear ABS. The light turns on an off and on again.

Does this mean the truck needs a new master cylinder? Could this be a problem with a sensor? If I don’t have it repaired what will happen? M.A., e-mail

A: Let me address your last question first. If you decide not to have the ABS system repaired the rear brakes will lock especially in an emergency stop. This could cause the vehicle to fishtail. This will require more of your effort to control the vehicle. If you loose control use your imagination on what could happen.

As for what is causing the light to illuminate. There could be a problem in the master cylinder, rear brake cylinders, electrical wiring, a faulty load sensor or ABS pump. Tests should be able to determine cause. Repair could be as simple as repairing a poor connection or broken wire. Also, it might require replacement of an expensive part such as an ABS pump.

Flasher Hides In Dash

Q:I am having trouble locating the turn signal flasher on my 1999 Toyota Sienna. The turn signal and emergency flashers don’t work at all. Is the flasher under the dash? D.S., San Jose, Calif.

A:Watch out for flashers! Just kidding as usual, but this trouble doesn’t appear to be caused by a failed turn signal flasher. It more than likely is caused by a failed fuse, broken wiring or maybe a failed turn signal switch.

Test the fuses and replace open fuses as necessary. If the fuses are fine, more work needs to be done. There are two flasher units. One is for the turn signals and the other is for the emergency flashers. It’s rare for both flasher units to fail at the same time but it is possible. You should find the flashers under the dash on the driver’s side. Replace if needed.

Trans Flush Might Not Fix Trouble

Q:What are the indications that a transmission needs a flush? J.E., e-mail

AFirst, if the transmission is exhibiting symptoms such as flared shifts, missed shifts or doesn’t engage a certain range check the fluid level according to the recommendations in the owner’s guide that came with the vehicle. If needed add fluid to the proper level. If the symptoms cease you are very lucky. Then take the vehicle to a transmission shop to find out why the transmission needed fluid as something likely is leaking.

If the transmission continues to malfunction there is a slim chance a flush might fix the trouble. The transmission more than likely is malfunctioning from an internal failure.

A transmission flush is a routine preventive maintenance service that is meant to renew the transmission fluid and is not meant to fix a problem within the transmission. To determine if the fluid needs a flush check the mileage and time interval listed in your owner’s guide. If your vehicle meets time and or mileage requirements as suggested by the manufacture have the transmission fluid flushed.

Also, if the fluid has a burnt odor or if the color varies from the factory fill it’s time for a flush. If you’re not sure of the color ask an experienced technician to check the condition of the fluid. The need for a flush could happen way before the recommendations listed in your owner’s guide as a result of the type of travel you do and the service your vehicle performs for you.

Engine Grumbles, Backfires And Stalls

Q:My 1988 Jeep with a fuel injected 6-cylinder engine will start and run for as long as 8 minutes, but then it quits. It starts again but if I rev the engine up a little it grumbles, backfires and stalls. A mechanic told me that the computer that controls the injectors is bad.

The engine runs well when it is running, has good compression and has never stalled while driving. The fuel pump is pumping, the air filter is clean and there is no moisture in the tailpipe. Four days before this trouble began I filled the gas tank and poured in a high grade fuel injector cleaner. What do you think is wrong? N.B., e-mail

A:The fuel injectors might be fouled as a result of the additive you poured into the gasoline but it’s more likely that there is an electrical problem.

Check the distributor cap and rotor. There might be cracks or carbon tracks in the cap. These can cause misfires, backfiring and stalling especially in high humidity conditions or if moisture from the engine collects in the cap. The cure might be replacement of the cap and rotor.

Also, it’s possible the spark plug wires are excessively worn. Worn spark plug wires can arc to a ground and cause the engine to misfire and backfire. If this is the case installation of new wires may bring your vehicle back into operation.

Light Shines Every 200 Miles

Q:My 1997 Ford Contour has been a very good car, but lately the “check engine” light has been turning on. Three times I have taken the car to a very reputable garage. When I leave the garage the light is off but turns back on about 200 miles later.

What could be wrong? P.M., St. Paul, Minn.

A:Sometimes finding a cause for the light to turn on can be challenging. It might be turning on as a result of a small leak in the gasoline vapor recovery system. The system is designed to contain gasoline vapors so they don’t escape into the atmosphere. If a small leak develops as a result of a faulty gasoline cap, leaky hose, failed canister or connection the light should illuminate. Ask a technician to consider this suggestion. If indeed he thinks this is a good possibility he will need to perform visual and computer tests to determine what is leaking.

Irked Over Vibration

Q:The engine in my 2004 Buick LeSabre idles rough. I feel the vibration in my steering wheel. Personnel at two different dealer repair shops have stated that the vibration is normal and that the factory is not able to find a cure. When I called General Motors about the trouble a representative referred me to a dealership. Do you know anything about this problem? R.F., e-mail

A:A check of factory technical service bulletins did not find any information regarding this condition. If the vibration was not present when you first purchased the vehicle and has recently developed there might be issues related to deposits in the engine that cause vibrations.

This might be the result of the fuel you purchase. If so tests of the fuel injectors and an inspection of the combustion chambers with a bore scope might find deposits are the cause of vibrations.

To fix the trouble the fuel injectors, valves and pistons might need cleaning. This can be accomplished using special chemicals and procedures. Ask shop personnel to consider this the next time you visit a repair facility but be prepared to pay for such procedures as conditions resulting from fuel are likely beyond the scope of the factory warranty.

Searching For Sensor Wires

Q:The anti-lock brake system light is on in my 2000 Buick Century. I’d like to fix the trouble myself. Can you tell me where the wires are for the wheel sensors? R.M., e-mail

A:There is a possibility there is a broken wire at a wheel sensor. On the inboard side of each wheel you will find a wheel sensor. Each sensor has a wire attached to it. If the wire is broken you might be able to repair it.

If the wires are not broken or disconnected there are many other causes for a failure of the anti-lock brake system. A wheel sensor could fail. The wheel sensor air gap may not be within specifications due to corrosion or road debris hitting a sensor. There may be a blown fuse or perhaps the pump or control module have faults.

If you don’t find broken or disconnected wires consider taking the vehicle to an experienced technician for a proper diagnosis. If you start replacing parts in hope of fixing the trouble you might spend big bucks unnecessarily.

Cruise Quits Despite Repairs

Q:The cruise control in my 1991 Chevrolet intermittently quits working. Twice I have replaced the servo but the cruise continues to quit. Could the control on the steering column be the cause of this malfunction? D.W., e-mail

A:Yes indeed. There may be a faulty connection in the wiring at the base of the steering column. Perhaps the switch has a fault. It’s also possible that all the trouble is caused by a faulty brake switch at the brake pedal. Also, the switch might need adjustment. A search for these possible causes may find the cure you are looking for.

Botched Job Followed By Patch Work- No Way!

Q:I took my car to a repair shop to have the radiator replaced. It’s been in the shop for over a week. In the process of repair the mechanic made an error. He installed the new radiator but when he started the engine the cooling system fan hit the brand new radiator and damaged it.

The mechanic said he will correct the trouble but he wants to send the new radiator out for repair and he just wants to paint the cooling system fan. I think he should install a new radiator and cooling system fan. What do you think? M.S.W., e-mail

A:Let me get this straight. The tech installed a new radiator. He screws up the job by not checking his work for proper installation and alignment of the radiator and associated parts. Then he starts the engine and the cooling system fan chews up the new radiator and damages the fan. Now he wants to paint the fan and send the brand new radiator to a repair shop for repair.

You are paying for a new radiator with a new radiator factory warranty. He should replace the radiator with a new unit. Also, there is a good possibility the cooling system fan was bent as it tore into the radiator. This should be replaced as a bent fan will cause vibration and cause other parts to wear prematurely. Also, vibrations from the fan likely will be felt in the passenger compartment and more than likely in the steering wheel, brake pedal and gas pedal. In addition to this if the fan is controlled a clutch it should be replaced, too.

If he doesn’t make good and replace the new but damaged radiator with another new radiator and install a new fan and at the very least a remanufactured fan clutch file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau and the Attorney General of your state. You might also consider taking him to small claims court if they can’t straighten him out.

Transmission Flush Exchanges Old For New

Q:The last time I took my 2002 Buick LeSabre with 31,000 miles to a shop for an oil change the technician suggested a transmission fluid change. He said that he has a new way of servicing the transmission. He connects hoses to the transmission and sucks all the fluid out of it as opposed to dropping the transmission pan to drain the fluid. He said that he doesn’t even need to install a new filter.

Is this better than dropping the transmission pan to drain the fluid? R.T., Joliet, IL.

A:It’s likely what the technician is suggesting is a transmission fluid flush. This is done with a machine that flushes all of the fluid from the transmission. In the flush process fine metal fragments and clutch material that normally adhere to parts within the unit are removed and filtered through the flushing equipment.

New fresh clean fluid is then pumped back into the transmission. The fluid capacity for your transmission is about 10 quarts.

Draining the fluid using the old fashioned procedure removes as much as seven quarts, but more than likely only about four quarts actually drip from the unit. Also, this procedure doesn’t remove all of the fine metal and clutch material that accumulate in the transmission.

Your car isn’t due for the service just yet. According to my service schedule the factory recommended transmission fluid change interval for your vehicle is 50,000 miles. However, if you should decide to perform preventive maintenance now or wait until the car has more miles on the odometer it’s a good idea to replace the transmission filter. Flushing the transmission does not clean the filter so replace it when you have the service performed.

Allergic Reaction

Q:In a recent column you mentioned that auto interior materials give off gasses that cause film on the inside of the glass. I remember reading an article about a policeman who exhibited flu symptoms as a result of the gasses in his police car. Also, I remember a couple of teachers who were allergic to materials in their cars.

What are your thoughts about this? E.E.C.C., Crystal Lake, IL.

A:All kinds of materials make a car. There are adhesives, fabrics of all kinds, plastics, paint, lubricants, fabric protectors and much more. All of these produce vapors that float in the air.

I’m no doctor but it is possible for a person to have an allergic reaction to something that comprises an auto.

Then, if you consider the dust and dirt that a vehicle accumulates during travel there are all kinds of substances such as soup, pesticides, odors, fertilizer, an uncle’s fish bait, animal dander, pollen and more that could end up in a car. Any of these could cause an allergic or objectionable reaction especially old fish bait.

Another source of irritation or allergic reaction might be in the heating, air conditioning and ventilation system. Moisture in the system can cause mold and mildew. Who knows what this can cause. Thank goodness many late model vehicles have a cabin air filter to reduce pollen and dust that can cause molds.

Over my many years in the auto industry I have had conversations with vehicle owners who say they are allergic to something in their car. If you suspect that you are having an allergic reaction to something in your vehicle perhaps you should consider seeking medical attention and then thoroughly clean the interior of your vehicle. You’ll be surprised how much dirt and dust is in the seats, carpeting and floor mats.

If you think something in the heating and air conditioning system is the cause of discomfort consider asking a qualified technician to chemically treat the system to rid it of molds and mildew.

Also, if you haven’t replaced the cabin air filter in a couple of years it might be filthy with all kinds of dust, dirt and bugs that might cause irritation. Replacement might cure your ills.

Tired Tires

Q:My Dodge Dakota is five years old and only has 42,000 miles on it. The truck has the original set of tires on it and they appear to have adequate tread.

Since the tire tread is good should I consider replacing the tires because of their age? J.S., Egan, Mich.

A:Tires sure are much better than they used to be but age does weaken them. In fact there is a study underway in which eventually tire makers will likely place a recommended replacement date on tires.

Inspect the tires sidewalls and tread for signs of dry-rot, cuts, bulges, ply separations and any other damage such as a nail puncture. If you should find something stuck in the tread do not remove it. Remove the damaged tire and install the spare. Take the damaged tire to a technician for examination and possible repair.

If you find a tire is suffering from dry-rot, bulges, ply separations, tread separations or has suffered any damage especially in the sidewalls it’s a good idea to replace the tire. Any of these conditions can cause a tire to blow out.

Shudder Condition Caused By Worn Tires

Q:Last April I purchased a 2004 Ford F-150 Lariat. Five months later at 14,000 miles the truck began to shudder at speeds over 55 mph. Ford dealer personnel said that factory engineers were working on the trouble.

Last December a dealer technician installed what I call a vibration dampener on the left rear spring. This removed 60 to 70 percent of the shudder, but now it occurs at 45 to 55 mph. Most of my travel is at these speeds.

This truck now has 38,000 miles on it. The 18 inch tires are almost worn out. The tires on my previous F-150 lasted 50,000 miles. Will a 2005 F-150 have the shudder problem? What causes this unusual tire wear? G.M., Lockport, N.Y.

A:There are a few technical service bulletins that address conditions similar to your description. Dealer personnel should have considered them when you had the truck in the shop for diagnosis.

Before a technician addresses the shudder symptoms he must access the condition of the tires and take other factors into consideration such as cargo load, tool boxes or vehicle modifications.

Loads or vehicle modifications often change the geometry of the suspension and steering. This often causes unusual tire wear. This is something that is beyond factory control. As a result a technician has to take all of this into account before suggesting repairs. This could be a condition that will require some trial and error repairs.

However, since you state that the tires are nearly worn out installation of new tires, proper balance and proper tire inflation might cure all of your concerns. If not further investigation by a qualified technician needs to occur.

As for why the tires seem to have worn out prematurely, tire wear is influenced by vehicle load, driving habits and preventive maintenance. Preventive maintenance includes inflation checks to make sure the tires have the inflation necessary to handle the load, tire rotation, alignment and balance services.

As for if a 2005 F-150 will have similar problems, yes there are technical service bulletins that address conditions similar to your description so it is possible if you were to purchase a 2005 F-150 that you might have a similar experience.

Misguided Air From Air Conditioner

Q:The air conditioner in my 2003 Oldsmobile Alero blows plenty of cold air but it comes out of the defroster vents. The air no longer blows from the center dash vents or any other vent combinations on the control.

What’s up? P.L., e-mail

A:This may be the result of a failed control on the dash but before anyone tears into the dash all electrical connections in the system should be inspected for proper security and corrosion. Sometimes just unplugging and then plugging a connection back together will cure a problem. A slight tug on a wire might return proper operation.

Also, all the vacuum lines should be checked for proper security, cracks and leaks. Sometimes a vacuum line is accidentally disconnected during other repairs or services. A cracked vacuum line should be replaced however if a line slipped off a fitting simply reconnecting it might return the system to normal operation.

Since the HVAC system in your vehicle has diagnostic capabilities a check of computer diagnostic trouble codes may find a circuit or control has a fault. If so replacement of a control or repair of a circuit will fix the trouble.

Cruise Control Takes A Break

Q:The cruise control in my 23 foot 1991 motor home with a Chevrolet 350 engine intermittently quits working. Twice I have replaced the servo but this hasn’t cured the trouble.

Do you think the controls on the steering column are at fault? D.W., e-mail

A:The trouble might be in the switch on the steering column. It’s also possible that the brake pedal switches have a fault or need adjustment. In addition to these possible causes the linkage to the throttle might not be in proper adjustment.

It’s also possible a speed sensor has a fault. Testing should verify a failure. If it has a malfunction replacement should be the cure.

If you have a factory repair manual consider using the diagnostic flow chart to track down the fault. It will show you how to test sensors, adjust switches and suggest the proper tools to do the job.

Noise Results In Huge Repair Bills

Q:I’m a loyal Jeep owner who has owned Jeeps for many years. Presently I own a 1993 Jeep Cherokee with 192,000 miles and a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 77,000 miles. My 1993 has been a great vehicle.

I’m unhappy with my 2000 Cherokee. Since owning the vehicle I have spent nearly $7,000 in repairs on power door locks and a driveline noise.

Dealer personnel have replaced the front and rear differentials, axles, drive shafts and more but the noise persists. This noise began at 61,000 miles and has persisted despite all of the repairs. Dealer personnel have told me that if I would have purchased a Kia repairs would have covered by the warranty.

By the way the dealer sells Jeeps and Kias. I want to remain a Jeep owner but I think that spending $7,000 on repairs that haven’t been effective in solving the trouble is a bit much. I’d like Chrysler to give me a break on the next Jeep I purchase. Can you help? C.J., West Chicago, IL.

A:Along with your 2-page letter you sent a thorough 14-page account of the service history of your Cherokee. Dealer personnel have replaced just about everything in the driveline except the perhaps the muffler bearings. Just kidding there aren’t any muffler bearings but if there were it appears a technician would have replaced them.

From the description of the noise more than likely a bearing isn’t fully seated or gears are not shimmed according to specifications. Something that has been replaced is not properly aligned. It also is possible that the noise is related to tire tread wear but I would hope an experienced technician would have ruled this out before tearing into the differentials, axles and other driveline components.

You could continue to go to the dealer for further diagnosis or since you want to purchase another Jeep you could trade this vehicle and buy another. I have forwarded your letter and service history to a Chrysler representative. Please let me know what happens.

Perceived Gain May Not Be Benefit

Q:I have a 2001 Ford Explorer SportTrac with 75,000 miles. I’m going to give it a tune-up. I know that platinum spark plugs are better than copper. I’m also aware that there are spark plugs with two and four prongs on the end but these cost more than spark plugs with one prong.

Do the spark plugs with multiple prongs last longer than spark plugs with one prong? Do they give more power? V.S., San Juan Capistrano, Calif.

A:Spark plugs with multiple electrodes allegedly provide a better spark to ignite the fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. They also cost more than factory original spark plugs and may not last any longer than conventional style spark plugs.

You might see an improvement in power but since the spark plugs in your vehicle have undergone 75,000 miles of wear no matter which spark plug you decide to install you likely will feel an improvement in performance so it will be difficult to judge the difference unless you compare performance under laboratory conditions while testing different spark plugs that are brand new.

Consider installing factory original equipment spark plugs to see how the engine performs. If you are not satisfied install a set of multiple electrode spark plugs and you may perceive that they perform a little better than factory original equipment plugs but maybe not.

Radiator Service Not Related To Failure

Q:The seat belt and air bag lights have been blinking in my 1998 Toyota Corolla. This began right after a dealer technician flushed the radiator. The lights turn on when my wife slides the passenger seat forward.

The first time I took the car back to the dealer it cost $1,200 to replace some linkage under the passenger seat. What else could be wrong? B.P., e-mail

A:You could tell your wife to leave the seat position alone but you’d probably end up in big trouble. Hope I can help.

It’s doubtful that the radiator service had anything to do with the failure. Testing should determine which circuit has a fault. This could be due to a faulty electrical connection under the seat or there may be a faulty sensor.

It’s also possible that a sensor or electrical connection at the front of the vehicle has a fault. If this is true corrosion or a loose connection might be to blame. If so all a technician might need to do is secure or thoroughly clean the connection.

Controversy Over Tire Inflation

Q:In a recent column you advised a reader to fill the tires according to the maximum inflation pressure on the sidewall of the tire. This could be dangerous. The tires should be inflated according to sticker commonly found on the driver’s door. Under and overinflation can affect the handling of the car and tire wear.

Can you comment? L.S., La Crescent, Minn.

A:In the column you mention I stated that the tires can be inflated a few pounds under the maximum inflation pressure.

Over the many years I have been in this business I have found and many of my colleagues have discovered that the inflation pressure listed on the driver’s door placard or in the glove compartment is not the best inflation pressure for the tire, the load in the vehicle or handling.

I can tell you from my own experience that slightly raising the pressure under the maximum tire inflation depending upon vehicle load saves gas and increases tire life to the point where I have driven 80,000 miles without the need for new tires and handling is not compromised. Also, properly inflated tires are more puncture resistant.

I do have to stress that I am meticulous about checking tire inflation and check them often for under or overinflation wear and unusual conditions such as ply separations, bulges, sidewall damage, alignment problems and out of balance wear.

Study after study has found that tire underinflation is a very common problem. If you were to randomly check the cold tire inflation of vehicles in a parking lot that have been parked for about eight hours you would likely find most of the tires are underinflated compared to the inflation pressures listed on the door placard.

Years ago I was involved in a study and 70 percent of the vehicles checked had tires that were underinflated. There are many reasons for this. Inflation pressure is not checked often enough.

Service personnel at many repair shops don’t check the inflation pressure when a car is in for service. Also, when the inflation pressure is checked the tires are warm so the pressure might be within a pound or two of the pressure suggested by the carmaker but in actuality underinflated.

In addition to all of this the common inflation pressure gauge is not accurate to the pound. An inexpensive gauge might be plus or minus three pounds or more inaccurate.

If you inflate a tire with a cheap gauge and the tire isn’t cold the pressure could be underinflated by perhaps six pounds. This is significant. This could cause premature tire wear, reduced fuel economy, affect vehicle handling and a tire is more prone to a puncture.

Cooling System Fan Takes A Break

Q:The cooling system fan in my 1994 Oldsmobile Ciera with a 3.1 liter engine doesn’t turn on. I’ve checked the relay and grounds. They are fine. I checked the fuses to find that they are ok. I applied 12 volts to the fan motor and it turns on.

What could be wrong? D.C., e-mail

A:The computer might have a fault. A temperature sensor may have failed.

A low coolant level condition in the cooling system might be at fault. Perhaps the coolant is dirty and foul and needs to be flushed. Perhaps there is a poor connection in the circuit.

If you have a factory service manual or subscribe to a repair manual internet service such as ALLDATA or Mitchell you should be able to trace the circuits and eventually find the cause of this condition.

In the meantime consider flipping on the air conditioner as this might turn on the cooling fan so you don’t overheat the engine. If it does overheat it could suffer severe damage and you might have to kiss it goodbye.

Squeaky Engine Spells Big Trouble

QThere is a squeaking noise coming from the engine of my 2000 Ford Explorer. It sounds like a worn drive belt. It is not the drive belt because a technician removed it and the noise did not go away. The technician thinks the sound is coming from inside the engine. To me it sounds as though it is an external noise and not within the engine. Do you have any suggestions? C.P., e-mail

A:A squeak inside the engine usually is associated with poor lubrication. As a result, the engine usually destroys itself within a matter of minutes.

When bearings within the engine are not properly lubricated friction causes heat and with each turn of the crankshaft the bearings wear and rub against the crankshaft. During this process they can squeak. Usually as this happens the engine begins to make loud knocking sounds as the clearance between the crankshaft and bearing widens.

Since your engine doesn’t seem to be knocking the squeak sound is likely not from inside the engine. If the technician insists that there is a problem within the engine, and wants to disassemble it, tow the vehicle to an experienced technician at another repair shop for a second opinion.