Dayton Daily News

Q In a recent column, I read about a Chrysler owner who had trouble starting the engine after a brief stop to do an errand. I had a Chrysler that had the same problem. Also, my brother had the same problem with his Chrysler.

My brother's car was fixed after a mechanic replaced the solenoid on the starter motor. I told this to my mechanic, but he insisted a failing battery caused the trouble. He replaced the battery but after replacing it three times, the engine still would not start. After I had the solenoid replaced, the problem was fixed once and for all.

I don't recall you ever suggesting a failed starter solenoid as the problem. Don't starter solenoids fail anymore? M.F.F., Fresno, Calif.

A You bet they do, and they are a big issue when they fail. However, over the years electric motor technology has made great strides that have improved the reliability of starter motors and solenoids, so the parts don't fail as often as they did years ago. Also, many cars have technology built into the starting system that helps to prevent starter problems that can cause damage to the engine flywheel, starter motor and solenoid. Also, some systems no longer have solenoids. In addition, technology makes engine starts much easier, so the starter motor doesn't have to work as hard as it did years ago.

As you have experienced, sometimes a technician does not make a proper diagnosis when it comes to a failed starter or solenoid. As for me never suggesting a failed solenoid, your memory serves you well. I cannot recall the last time I suggested a problem with a failed starter solenoid.

The letters I receive offer symptoms. These send me down a diagnostic path. From the symptoms I suggest possible causes and repair. Since most of the letters I receive are from readers who often are at their wit's end about a vehicular ailment that no technician seems to be able to repair, it's more than likely that repair shop technicians are properly diagnosing faulty starter solenoids and starter motor problems the first time a car is brought into their shop.

Random air flow from HVAC system

Q The air blowing from the vents in my 1987 Buick Electra Park Avenue switches at will to the floor or to the defroster vents, regardless of where I set the controls. I took the car to my local mechanic where I was told that he would not fool with it. He suggested that I take the car to a dealership shop. I took the car to a dealer where I was told that it might be very expensive to fix. What do you think? D.T., Paynesville, Minn.

A Your center dash control is a computer microprocessor that controls everything in the system. When you select a mode and temperature, a microprocessor sends electrical power to various motors that adjust doors within the ducts under dash. The position of the doors brings a mix of outside air, cabin air, air-conditioned air and heated air to your desired temperature setting. The doors also direct the air to the center dash vents, windshield vents and floor vents depending on the mode you select.

The dash control is the heart of the entire system. Since this is the case, it appears that the dash control has a fault. The likely repair is to replace the control head in the dash. The unit has self-diagnostic capabilities that a technician can utilize to determine if indeed there is a fault. The big problem you might encounter is finding a new or remanufactured replacement part. Also, the cost of the part might be factor in whether or not you decide to replace it. The labor to replace it is a consideration although it shouldn't take more than a half an hour to swap the part.

A tap on relay brings fuel pump to life

Q In a recent column I read about a hard starting problem in a 1994 Ford Explorer. At times, I had a problem starting my 1994 Ford Explorer. It would cough and sputter but would not start. I took my Explorer to a mechanic at a Ford dealer. After a series of tests, tuning the engine, replacing the fuel pump and taking $600 from my pocket the engine coughed, sputtered and it still wouldn't start.

After I took the on the problem I discovered that if I tapped on the fuel pump relay with a screwdriver the engine started fine. I replaced the part and the problem is solved.

Can you tell the other Explorer owner? J.L.D., Portland, Ore.

A You must be referring to T.Z. and his 1994 Ford Explorer with 200,000 miles that at times is difficult to start. I hope that he is reading the column today. A technician replaced the fuel pump but the starting trouble persists. Also since the alleged repair he has been having trouble pumping fuel into the gas tank. Fuel kicks back from the filler neck.

I suggested that perhaps the fuel he uses has too high a Reid vapor pressure and causes occasional hard starts. Also, I suggested that he return to the technician to check his work regarding the fuel hoses attached to the fuel tank. Perhaps one of the hoses is pinched and causes fuel to kick back when he is filling the gas tank.

Your suggestion to replace the fuel pump relay indeed is great. It won't cure the fuel kickback problem but it sure could fix his starting problem. Thanks for your contribution.

Dirt and humidity cause squeaky brakes

Q Approximately a year ago the rear brakes in my 1996 Mercury Tracer station wagon began to make awful squealing sounds when I applied the brakes. I hear the sounds only when the humidity is very high or when it's raining. The squealing stops after I make four to five stops.

Several times I've had the brakes checked by a reliable mechanic, but he can't find a reason for the squealing. Can you help? B.M., e-mail

A Squealing and squeaks are common in brake systems. Most everything in a car is superlight and secured by tabs, pins, nuts, bolts, rivets, high strength glue and welds so parts don't move or fall off. However, brakes are designed to be loose and move. The rear brakes on your car are held together with springs. As a result, they can vibrate and make noise. This usually occurs when there is a combination of dirt and moisture on the brake shoes and drums. Sometimes the brakes will make sounds when they develop a shiny glaze.

To temporarily halt the squealing a technician can attempt to stop the annoyance with a thorough cleaning of the brake drums and shoes. A light sanding of the shoes and drums might also be necessary. He should check the hardware that secures the shoes in the vehicle for weakness and replace hardware if needed.

If the brake shoes are contaminated with rust or other substances they should be replaced and the brake drums should be machined or replaced. This should stop the squealing sounds until the shoes and drum succumb to the motoring environment.

Flushing engine sludge has risks

Q I have a 2001 Dodge Intrepid with 60,000 miles. The engine has sludge in it. I admit that I have not changed the oil and filter on a regular basis. I'm considering having the engine flushed.

Does flushing the engine remove all of the sludge? Can the procedure cause internal damage? If the procedure works, how can I avoid getting into this predicament in the future? P.P., e-mail

A Flushing services are offered by many independent repair shops, dealership repair shops and used car sales facilities. The procedure does not remove all of the sludge from the engine and there are risks. Sometimes after a flushing procedure the engine consumes excessive amounts of oil. This may or may not subside. Also, sometimes cleaning products used during the procedure become trapped in the engine or are not completely removed. This can impair the oil's ability to lubricate bearings and other vital moving parts. As a result, the engine may suffer severe damage that may require an overhaul or replacement.

If the procedure is performed properly, and the engine survives, the only way to prevent the formation of sludge is to do regularly scheduled oil and filter changes. My suggestion is to do the preventive service every 3,000 miles or three months, whichever occurs first. Also, it helps to bring the engine to full operating temperature whenever you travel. In doing so, the engine is less likely to develop conditions that contribute to the formation of sludge.

High engine rpms normal during cold weather

Q When I start my 1988 Chevrolet Beretta with a 4-cylinder 2.0-liter engine during cold winter weather it races at 3,000 rpms. The high speed continues for about three minutes and then it drops to around 1,200 rpms. During the summer months this does not happen.

I've taken my car to two Chevrolet dealer shops and four independent repair shops. Mechanics at all six repair shops told me that they couldn't fix the problem because the car is old. Can you help? M.W., Battle Creek, Iowa

A Even though your car is 20 years old it seems that it wants to gallop. All kidding aside the engine speed is computer controlled albeit it's above average in your car. The computer sets the speed according to conditions in the engine such as ambient temperature and coolant temperature. Deposits within the engine also affect the engine speed. There is not a specification for the cold high idle speed nor is there an adjustment to slow it down. Also, it's not unusual for an engine to react in such a manor. However, you might consider a few suggestions. These suggestions might bring down the high idle a little or it may not but it is worth a try.

Make sure all sensors are operating within factory specifications. Replace faulty sensors. Make sure the throttle body unit is clean. Consider removing carbon from within the engine with specialized chemicals. Once everything is clean, a technician should consider cleaning and adjusting the idle air control and engine base idle according to factory recommended procedures as addressed in factory technical service bulletins and the factory repair manual.

Faulty sensor impairs starts

Q When the engine in my 1999 Mercury Cougar is hot and I shut it off for a brief period, when I restart it starts but then it stalls. Sometimes I have to crank the engine 15 seconds before it starts. When it starts, I have to rev up the engine to keep it going. Once the engine stabilizes, it runs fine.

I took the car to my dealer where a technician didn't find the cause. He thinks the computer is going bad. I didn't have the part replaced.

For a while, the check engine light was turning on and off. Now it is on continuously. Can you help? G.G., e-mail

A Since the check engine light is continually illuminated, a technician's computerized diagnostic scanner should reveal trouble codes that he can use to troubleshoot the problem. It's possible that the engine computer has a fault, but from your description there likely is an issue with a sensor such as an impaired airflow or engine coolant temperature sensor. The airflow sensor sends air temperature and the volume of air going into the engine to the computer. The coolant sensor sends temperature information to the computer about the temperature of the antifreeze mixture. You might know the old saying in computer circles, "garbage in garbage out". This holds true in computer-controlled engines. If sensors are not providing good information to the computer, the computer can't properly control the engine.

If the coolant temperature sensor has a fault, it's possible the cooling system needs a flush and the sensor may need replacement.

If the airflow sensor has a fault, cleaning might cure the trouble. If not replacement might be the cure.

Reader scores a touchdown with tip

Q In a recent column I read about a reader who has a van with frosty windows. I had the same problem with my Dodge van. I also was told that it is a common problem in vans. I was told to crack open the windows. I even installed two fans in the rear of the van but nothing solved the problem. After going to three dealers, I almost gave up. I went to a fourth dealer where a technician found that the fresh air door was stuck closed when the HVAC system was set to defrost. It's supposed to be open. He replaced the door and the frosty problem is solved.

Can you inform the reader of this solution? S. H., e-mail

A You nailed it. You must be referring to M.H. who owns a 2002 Dodge B3500 van that is plagued by frost on the inside of the windows. He has to scrape the inside of the glass to see the road. I hope that he is reading the column today.

It's amazing that it took technicians at four different dealer repair shops to find a stuck fresh air door.

The trouble in your van indeed could be the same problem in the B3500 van. The fresh air door allows fresh outside air into the system. It's heated and blown into the cabin to defrost the glass. Generally cold fresh winter air has less humidity than the air inside a vehicle. Combined with refrigerated air from the air conditioner the air becomes less humid. Once refrigerated air is heated, it's as dry as a desert bone and removes fog and frost from the glass.

M.H. should run to a repair shop to have his fresh air door checked. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Heater with split personality

Q When it is cold outside the floor vents in my 2001 Toyota Corolla blow cold air while the dash vents blow warm air. I have to drive about ten miles before the air blowing from the floor vents heats up. I've had several mechanic check for the trouble but no one can find the source of the problem. Can you help? S.O., e-mail

A The heating and air conditioning system in your car is not as complex as in other vehicles. Cables operate the doors that direct air within the ducts. It's likely one of the cables is not secure or a door is sticking. To find the trouble a technician needs to examine a diagram of the system and read the description of operation. Once he has an understanding of the position of the doors at certain settings on the dash control he can determine if the doors in your heater are in the proper positions at particular settings. Then he can determine what needs repair.

It's possible that debris such as leaves or other items in the ducts impairs proper movement of the cables and doors. Since the doors have seals on them, it's possible that a seal has broken. If so replacement might be the cure.

Solution for trouble found in factory technical service bulletin

Q A few months ago the air bag light illuminated in my 2001 Ford Ranger. Since then it has been turning on and off on a regular basis although it doesn't turn on every time I drive the truck.

Has Ford issued any technical service bulletins about this? What do you think is wrong? G.E., e-mail

A Ford has issued a technical service bulletin that might affect your vehicle. On some Ford Rangers the wiring connections for the safety belt pretensioner system might become corroded.

After a technician follows all safety procedures so the air bags don't deploy and put him in the hospital or morgue he checks for diagnostic trouble codes. He also may check the connections for corrosion. If the connections are the cause of the trouble, he cleans them with factory recommended electrical cleaners and the trouble is repaired. Then he clears the trouble codes from the computer and sends the patient home.

This indeed could be the trouble in your vehicle.

Cruise control trouble on ice

Q Some time ago you had a column that addressed the use of cruise control when the streets have snow or ice on them. As I recall you suggested not to you the cruise control but I don't remember why. I think you said it would cause the wheels to spin. Am I right? E.C., e-mail

A It's been a while since anyone has asked about cruise control but you have a good memory. During slippery conditions, the use of cruise control can cause the drive wheels to suddenly spin.

Let's say you are driving along a highway at 55 mph. You begin to traverse a bridge that has black ice on it. As you know, black ice is very dangerous. The bridge has a slight incline. When the cruise control senses an incline, it accelerates the engine to keep the car at a steady speed. At this moment, the drive wheels on the icy surface lose traction that causes them to spin. The cruise control then reacts and releases the gas pedal. A scenario such as this can send a car into a spin that a driver may not be able to control and recover. As a result, the car might slam into other vehicles or objects. This is why I suggest not using the cruise control when you suspect there may be slick conditions.

Loss of traction can occur when you least expect it when driving on dry surfaces, in rain, snow or on ice. When the cruise control is engaged you have less control over the vehicle. On slick road surfaces it only takes a split second to lose control of a vehicle.

Squeaky brakes need inspection

Q In the morning the brakes in my 1999 Chevrolet Lumina make a screeching sound. After I drive a bit the noise subsides. I spoke to a mechanic about the noises but he feels that it is caused by moisture on the brakes. What do you think? P.R., e-mail

A What you experience may be normal. Moist air, rain and dew cause the brake rotors, drums and metallic brake shoes and pads to rust. The corrosion often causes brakes to make noise. As you have experienced the noise usually subsides with each brake pedal application.

To be sure the brakes are working as designed consider asking an experienced technician to inspect them. He may find a problem but he may find everything is normal. At the very least inspection may give you peace of mind.